I know some of these questions have been answered before, but I have a lot and it may be easier for one person to answer.

I have two jeeps a liberty and a wrangler. The bodies are in good shape with the exception of the top of the liberty which is highly oxidized. Just a little rust starting to develop on the wrangler. I want to try painting both of them on my own. I have seen lots of Youtube videos and there seems to be a lot of different answers or nothing really conclusive. So here are the biggest questions.

1) What is the big difference between acrylic and enamel paints?
2) Can I use a sander?
3) How much sanding should I do prior? Should I sand all of the paint off or leave the paint that is there?
4) If I spray single stage paint and it runs, can I simply sand the run off and repaint that small section?
5) About how much paint would I expect to use on a 2 door wrangler and a liberty?
6) Both vehicles are used extensively in the outdoors, so a perfect paint job is not super important, would there be any advantage to single stage or two stage paints?
7) Treating the small rust areas would it be a thorough sand and primer?
I may want to do some rhino lining stuff on the lower part of the liberty, should I paint that area too and then put the rhino lining on, or just tape it off?


Thank you so much for your patience and time.

Where to begin? well it starts with Tools.

What do you have for tools ?

At the heart of any good DIY shop is your Air compressor!
Do you have an Air compressor? if so How many CFM does the Pump make @90 psi?
Not how big the tank is, & Not how many HP the motor is.

Too small and all you'll have is problems painting.

Davandy wrote:
1) What is the big difference between acrylic and enamel paints?

Enamel is for use on garden furniture and wrought iron fences, not cars. Maybe you were think acrylic and urethane? The colour components are very similar - modified acrylic co-polymers. Acrylic is a low solids, air dry paint that is older technology (but not necessarily worse). Urethanes use a isocyanate hardener which is very dangerous but enables instant shine off the gun, so the industry loves it because it saves labour.

2) Can I use a sander?

I don't know. Can you?

Yes, of course

3) How much sanding should I do prior? Should I sand all of the paint off or leave the paint that is there?

It's very difficult just to sand off some of the paint and get a smooth surface. Probably best to take it all off.

4) If I spray single stage paint and it runs, can I simply sand the run off and repaint that small section?

No need to sand any more than just the run, off. Polish and you're done. Only need to repaint if you stuff it up and go through.

5) About how much paint would I expect to use on a 2 door wrangler and a liberty?

A Liberty here is a Subaru, but the answer to your question depends very much on the paint you'll be using and the colour of both the paint and shade of the primer.

6) Both vehicles are used extensively in the outdoors, so a perfect paint job is not super important, would there be any advantage to single stage or two stage paints?

Single stage direct gloss is easier and probably cheaper than base coat/clear coat but not quite as forgiving. If they're solid colours and used off road then just go with the DG.

7) Treating the small rust areas would it be a thorough sand and primer?

Rust is like an iceberg; 80% of it you can't see. But, if it's just a bit on the surface then thorough removal and an epoxy primer should do the trick.

8) I may want to do some rhino lining stuff on the lower part of the liberty, should I paint that area too and then put the rhino lining on, or just tape it off?

No need to topcoat but certainly attend to any rust or necessary body work and epoxy prime before the Rhino Lining.

Dennis is right. You do need equipment and the heart is a good compressor. Then you need sanders, spray guns, blocks........the list is endless. It's a sizeable investment, even for two vehicles.

You are on the right track by doing research before spending money.

Check out the Info Center and read the articles: https://www.autobody101.com/content/art ... ould-know/

Also at the top of each forum there are Sticky Posts that deal with specific techniques.

Sorry for the late response. I really appreciate your feedback and answers. I have most of the tools. I used to work on movie sets, and have some technical aptitude. If I have an air compressor that is larger than what is called for like 90 CFM would that be too much? (I have access to one from the guy who runs movie crews)

If I am using single stage should I still put a primer down over the bare metal?

Which type of primer would you recommend?

Sticky at the top of this forum: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16694

Uhhhh..... when I hear a guy mention 90 cfm I'm thinking he is going to be using one of those giant mobile gas/diesel compressor that you see powering jackhammers, etc. That is not what you want for spraying a car. Electric compressors in the 5 to 10 h.p. range putting out like 16 to 32 or so cfm are the norm. for what you need to do here.
Yes, single stage doesn't require any less priming/prep than base/clear. The kind/type of primer has more to do with the current condition of the vehicle. If you are going to be doing any body work at all consider an epoxy primer, do your body work, then straighten/level your surface with a high build primer. Nice thing about an epoxy primer is where you'd be doing bedliner effects, those areas would be good to go.....

DarrelK wrote: Electric compressors in the 5 to 10 h.p. range putting out like 16 to 32 or so cfm are the norm. for what you need to do here.
.

Would a 13.9 @ 90 PSI work if the specs on the gun were 9.55 CFM or 12.4 CFM?

Yes, if those figures are fairly accurate you would be okay. Compressor might be running more than I'd want but as long as you manage moisture in the lines I think you could pull it off.

Final Question I think....

How long after you paint a vehicle should you wait before you drive it?