Hello all, new here. So I'm restoring a 58 MGA and have not painted a car in over 30 years. I had the body and frame wet sandblasted and used rattle can etch primer to keep it from rusting. Since then I have completed the metal repair work and have now just started the finish body work. I am looking for recommendations on what paint system to use. I plan to use acrylic lacquer as the finish as I will be painting outdoors so I can fix the bug prints and my mistakes easier. This will not be a show car but I do want it to be nice. I am currently looking for a DTM high build primer and see many comments about choosing a paint system and following it and the spec sheets to a T. Any and all suggestions will be appreciated.
Good luck with all your projects!
Jack
Needing guidance on my paint project
20 posts
• Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2
Settled In
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2021 10:23 am Country: USA |
|
Get a lot of your stuff from Tamco, not because it is all the same manufacture, but rather it is good stuff, half the cost and they have FANTASTIC support. I have texted Tammy more than once on a Saturday as I am a weekend rookie who likes to forget things.
Tamco has some great DTM primers and HB primers. But I do mix products, I use Tamco's epoxy and HB primers and I also use FFG2 (Feather Fill). I use Tamco's HS clear over a variety of basecoats, candys, flakes & pearls. My topcoats are either Tamco, HOK or even the PPG Envirobase which I love shooting but is $$$$. Cover them all with the Tamco HS Clear. Now for my post disclaimer: I am a hobbyist weekender rookie hack that sands off more than I keep. Make sure to wait for some of this site's pros to respond and definitely find out about that rattle can etch primer... Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
|
|
Fair enough. Nice finishes can be obtained with acrylic and they'll give you a "period correct" finish which is important. Not all paint companies support acrylic these days (including Tamco) and the quality of the products varies from excellent to awful, with not much in between. I would recommend to stick with one of the major brands (Axalta/PPG/Glasurit) whose acrylic products are top shelf. Find a local distributor and go and talk to them about suitable products. I say this because your etch primer may not agree with some epoxies or even DTM primers, which are designed to go direct to the metal, not over an etching primer. Chris
|
|
Top Contributor
Posts: 6737
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm Location: OREGON COAST |
TOTALY AGREE , you should check about what can be used under the lacquer for a good primer. by good something better than lacquer primer, like a urathane hi build. i'm not sure how it would react to lacquer it may not lift it BUT it may not stick to it good ether. lacquer is fun to work with but it is a little finicky sometimes.
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
|
Settled In
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2021 10:23 am Country: USA |
Yes, in my own review of PPG product spec sheets it appears I am between a rock and a hard place. With having already applied etch primer and wanting to use acrylic Lacquer as a finish things in between (build & sealer primers) don't appear to line-up. The build primer compatible with etch primer (JP202) doesn't seem to be compatible with the sealer primer (VAP-CT) that is compatible with the finish (ACR-100) acrylic lacquer. I have not spoken to the local supplier yet, an auto parts store, but will do so soon. Next I will start looking at Axalta which is also available locally at another auto parts store. Again any help is appreciated. Thanks! Jack |
Alternative is to sand the cured etch primer and then cover it with epoxy. After that you can proceed with updated materials that will be compatible.
I paint certain projects outside. Mainly because they won't fit inside my garage. If you shoot base/clear you have the chance to correct any issues with the base before applying the clear. Once the clear is on you can cut and buff. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
|
Before you do anything, pick up the phone and ring the technical guys at PPG. Not the local distributor, the factory. While you may get good advice from the local guy his advice is going to be limited to his own experience and the products that he stocks. A technical guy in the factory however, deals with possibly hundreds more different products from the whole range of product lines and brands that they have. He probably also understands the chemistry involved.
In my case I use Axalta Cromax but I've had the guys in the lab tell me to use a product from a different line like Standox, because it has particular features that suit the job. If they say that you have to strip it and start again then that will be because they believe that to be the best course of action from a technical viewpoint, not from the profit that you'll generate with your purchase. Chris
|
|
Top Contributor
Posts: 6737
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm Location: OREGON COAST |
you also say your haveing to do this outside. have you thought of a temporary booth it can be made out of PVC pipe and covered with plastic tarping. you'll want to watch your temperatures, it'll be like painting in a green house.
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
|
Settled In
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2021 10:23 am Country: USA |
Great advice, makes sense. I guess it never even occurred to me that they (PPG) might actually talk to someone like me doing a once and done. I'll give that a go. Thanks! |
Settled In
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2021 10:23 am Country: USA |
Yes, considering all possibilities. My biggest hesitation with doing it outdoors is getting a nice windless day(s). In years past (many) I had good luck painting outdoors. I'll first get some experience priming, then I'll decide. |
20 posts
• Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2