Failing clear coat respray help

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 11:07 am
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1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 11:29 am
The 36/80 won't leave gouges in the metal? That's the only concern I had and why I wanted to start with a higher grit. If I can use 36 I'll gladly use 36 lol

All the priming... I think I get it. It's easier to fill and correct than begin with and maintain a perfect surface... right?

I don't have to worry about building up too much primer? Also how long are you letting all this primer dry between sandings?



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 12:30 pm
Anyone got a cheap & decent primer sprayer they can point me towards? (before I get flamed yes I know cheap and decent is an oxymoron but I'm just sanding it off anyway)

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 12:52 pm
40ozFatality wrote:Anyone got a cheap & decent primer sprayer they can point me towards?...


Iwata/Air Gunza AZ3 HTE-S
ANI F160 (I think is the current model)

Get a 2.0 or bigger tip
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 3:48 pm
[quote="40ozFatality"]The 36/80 won't leave gouges in the metal? That's the only concern I had and why I wanted to start with a higher grit. If I can use 36 I'll gladly use 36 lol

All the priming... I think I get it. It's easier to fill and correct than begin with and maintain a perfect surface... right?

I don't have to worry about building up too much primer? Also how long are you letting all this primer dry between sandings?

[/quote i use the 36 all the time and haven't seen any problems. i just cut the old paint off with the 36 grit, i may leave some of the factory primer in spots. i'm just trying to clean the old paint off not cut it to the metal but you will go to the metal a lot. if i leave primer spots i don't worry about it i come back with the D/A and some 80 grit to clean it up, and get those primer spots off. now the 80 grit leaves a perfect profile for the epoxy. way back when all we had was lacquer and enamel primers this might have been a problem as they would shrink like crazy and expose scratches in the base metal. now days you have epoxy and hi-build urathane primers that are light years better than what we had before. on your primer build a lot of it will be sanded off the epoxy can be filled and sanded the next day in normal temps. if it doesn't sand good give it another day the hi-build if you want to push it you can put it on then in 3-4 hours sand it. sand it when ever it feels good ( sands good ) . and yes to your last question. be sure and get your PRODUCT INFO SHEET with all your products, NOT THE MSDS SHEET. the info sheet will tell you dry times recoat times how to mix and so on.
Last edited by badsix on Wed Sep 15, 2021 3:52 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 3:48 pm
OldFatBald wrote:
40ozFatality wrote:Anyone got a cheap & decent primer sprayer they can point me towards?...


Iwata/Air Gunza AZ3 HTE-S
ANI F160 (I think is the current model)

Get a 2.0 or bigger tip


I have the 2.0 and it works fine for both 2k and polyester primer.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 3:50 pm
Most of the primer will get sanded off onto the floor if you are doing this right. The idea is to block sand to get the surfaces straight and level.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 5:23 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:
OldFatBald wrote:
40ozFatality wrote:Anyone got a cheap & decent primer sprayer they can point me towards?...


Iwata/Air Gunza AZ3 HTE-S
ANI F160 (I think is the current model)

Get a 2.0 or bigger tip


I have the 2.0 and it works fine for both 2k and polyester primer.


BTW, Do NOT purchase one off of Amazon. Too many fakes
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 10:00 pm
WOW!

All this talk about how to strip it down to bare metal BUT No mention of what he really needs as far as aan AIR system to paint it!

1 post touched on needing a Big **** compressor that I saw but that was it!?

I am gonna come out right and say it.
NOT HAVING A STICKY ABOUT AIR COMPRESSORS WATER TRAPS AND AIR FILTRATION IS AN INJUSTICE TO THE BOARD!


Can it be done with a Tiny **** air compressor and air filter system? yes.
But by guys that know what they are doing! could I pull it off ? Ya but could some one just starting out? NO!!!! Take it it how you like I could care less I am done trying to explain how your little 2-3 hp oil less compressor isnt going to work.

To the Newbs NO! how many threads do we have to read about failed attempts?
How many thousands of dollars of wasted materials before the truth is posted on a sticky??????

A Sticky about air compressors and air filtration Needs to be made!!!!!!! and it should be at TOP of the list of things you must read!
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 11:48 pm
Dennis,
I covered this in my article, "What every beginner should know."
From the article:

"Next we must consider the heart of your shop – the air compressor. Many of the higher end guns require large amounts of compressed air. One common misconception of beginners is that if the pressure is high enough the amount of air being supplied must be enough as well.

"Compressed air is measured in two capacities, pressure and volume. Pressure is measured as Pounds per Square Inch or PSI. Volume is measured in Cubic Feet per Minute or CFM (sometimes referred to as SCFM). These are two different things and should not be confused one with another.

"Air tools, including spray guns, will have the required amount of air (CFM) given at a specific operating pressure (PSI) for them to run properly. This means that your compressor must be capable of producing that much or preferably more than this amount. For example here are the Specifications for the DeVilbiss Tekna Copper:

"Key Specs

Air Cap 7E7 High Efficiency Air Cap (as efficient as HVLP!)
Fluid Tips 1.3mm needle/nozzle set as well as a 1.4mm needle/nozzle set
Materials All basecoats (inc. waterborne), all clearcoats, all single-stage
Air Pressure Input pressure: 16 to 30 PSI
Spray Pattern 12 ½ inch
Air consumption 9CFM to 13CFM

"Notice that two different specs are listed, Air Pressure and Air Consumption. To be safe in calculating air supply I suggest you take the high numbers so for this gun to operate properly your air compressor must produce 13 CFM at 30 PSI.

"Another concern is the run time of the compressor so sizing your compressor to handle at least 15 CFM at 40 PSI is recommended. This is especially true if you plan to use an air sander or sandblaster as they required large volumes of air as well.

"Once you have the proper size compressor you will need a filtration system and drier or at least a good water separator. The good ones are not cheap by any means and the Chinese stuff usually leaks air badly if they work at all. You will also need a quality air hose with Hi-flow fittings, a regulator and place to put your gun when not in use. Also, you will need airlines run for a distance of at least 20 feet prior to the water separator. This will help cool the air and allow the moisture to condense and be caught in the separator."


The problem is not that the information isn't here, it's that most newbies to the site don't take the time to look for it and read it.

There are a lot of great sticky posts, dealing with metal prep, sandpaper choices, blocking techniques, guide coat, metal fabrication, metal working, etc. Yet we see the same questions time and time again because they don't don't look for the answers before posting.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31
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