Please file this one as yet another "Rookie Weekender Hack Question"
The paint on my hood project is one coat of sealer, two coats of Tamco SS black with two coats of clear over it.
I was able to block out using 600 grit all the junk that had gotten on my hood while spraying in the Pig Barn. I used 600 dry and followed up with 800 wet.
While sanding out the junk, I went a little too far in an area that had a run and went through to the primer.
I circled on the photo where I think that you can see it the best. I sprayed on some W&G remover for the photos.
• Can I use one of my little guns with a 1.0 tip (ANI R150 or Iwata LPH-80) or an Impact Jr with a 1.2 tip and just shoot the area that I burned through or do I need to reshoot the entire hood with color again?
• If I can just shoot the primer area, any tips??
• Also, my Pig Barn can easily get over 90 degrees, shoot I switch to a slow hardener & reducer?
I will be shooting at least two more coats of the Tamco clear over reduced over the entire hood either way.
And yes, I need to learn to cut and polish. At least this time I didn't go through to bare metal.
Thanks again for any help!!
Spot or Reshoot entire hood?
24 posts
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Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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with black if you dry sand and wax and grease the black could still look cloudy under the new clear, so spotting in could show as blacker on the new paint.
since you wet sanded that cloudiness probably will not appear so you should be ok to spot in. Experienced Trained Certified
SATA Spray Equipment Germany Axalta ChromaBase Elite Standox Imron 5000 6000 PPG Delfeet Deltron Global Matthews Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 Genesis Valspar DeBeer LIC Akzo Nobel Sikkens Lesonal |
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PD, thanks,
But I am a little confused on your answer. Should I try just clear first? Or try to spot in some black SS, followed by more clear? Thanks again. Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6770
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm Location: OREGON COAST |
is that orange peel i see in the picture ? if so you need to get some activator for hi temps and some slow reducer for the temps your spraying in.
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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No orange peel in those photos, that is just the wet W&G remover that I sprayed for the photos of the spot that I am asking about. Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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You can spot prime then spray your colour, blending out the edges. But you'll need to reclear the whole bonnet.
Prep the area that you're going to colour with P800 wet and the rest with P1500 or grey Scotchbrite. As PD says, that should not show. It happens. Today I buffed through on a Mazda 3 in 41V (Soul Red factory candy). Painted it yesterday with 2 coats of tinted clear and one coat of normal clear. Just wasn't hard enough with overnight temperatures here still around 3 degrees C. I get the pleasure of doing that section again. Chris
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Now that makes me feel better. I just did the same thing on the freshly painted passenger door on the 69 Chevy C10! It still makes me slightly ill thinking about it. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Well, the day started out good.
Cleaned the hood with water based W&G remover, followed by Sem prep solve, then finished masking off the hood (the underside is a different color). The hood was already sanded to 800 wet a couple of days ago. Trying to get the dust under control, I blew out the Pig Barn yesterday to let the dust settle and watered down the floor today. First I over reduced the Black SS and shot the burned through area using my Impact Jr with a 1.2 tip. It came out perfect! I thought to myself, if the whole hood comes out that good I will be golden. Loaded up my Sata 5500 with the over reduced clear and that is when it all went to.... Immediately saw some more trash in my first coat. I got orange peel on part of the hood. And got a bunch of orange peel on the front. The orange peel on the front is due (I think) to me not putting enough material on because I was worried about runs and I think that I went too fast on that part. The peel on the top surface, I just don't know what operator error I did. But it is very frustrating. I spent so much time prepping it and it turned out worse. This is probably the worst clear job that I have done in the last two years, pure garbage. But, it looks like I get to practice my block sanding again. Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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You've identified the problem. SATA = Swell And Trash Attractor Chris
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Definitely looks like you sprayed it too dry. Either too far away from the panel or moving too fast.
I for one would rather deal with a possible run than lay clear on too dry. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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