2021 F-150 Platinum badges...strike coat?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2021 10:36 am
I am trying to black out some chrome pieces (chrome plastic) on a 2021 F-150 Platinum. I bought an extra side badge to test my process with before doing the rest of the pieces but in hindsight, probably the wrong piece to test on. I made several errors from what I can tell and before going any further wanted to get some real advice. These badges are not simply painted or dipped plastic, they have some sort of metal (I am guessing maybe aluminum) which made the process terrible.

My first step was to scuff the piece with gray and maroon scotch pads. I used Bulldog adhesion promoter and followed with a primer specifically for plastics and stopped at this step to see how it went. It peeled easily after 24 hours. Did not stick at all. First big mistake was I was advised to let the part sit in brake fluid which will take all the paint back off. I did so, and it sure did. Part was back to original.

Second, I throughly washed the part, scuffed again and this time used 400 grit sandpaper as I thought perhaps I didn't scuff the surface enough. I repeated my process with the same results.

Third time, I was advised that primer wasn't needed. The Bulldog is enough of a primer for these circumstances. Wait the indicated time then sprayed a coat of basecoat. I also sprayed 3 coats of 2K clear on the part and waited 48 hrs. I thought maybe I had it, but again the paint peeled and this time, the metal peeled off with it revealing bare plastic under.

I was told this is done using a strike coat using various alloys and there was no good way to paint it as manufacturers use vacuum-metalizing and then typically clear coat it and best to just wrap those pieces in vinyl. My concern now is for the rest of the various pieces, including the door handles, grill, rear emblem etc,

Sorry this is so long, just trying to be as detailed as possible....brake fluid was bad advice. But is it true there is no good way to paint these pieces? I have watched numerous videos, read countless threads of people successfully doing so. Not looking for some plastic-dip or Krylon hack job, but wanted to try and do it right. I failed so figure maybe best to ask for advice on these pieces. 2K primers are done by some, I have read about epoxy primers as well, but it can be confusing.

What should be the promoter/prime step?

Clean and wash piece.
Scuff/sand surface
Adhesion promoter?
Primer and what is best for this scenario?
Base coat
Clear coat

I will try to attach pictures of the emblem I am referring to. Hard to tell, but the top part is the agate black base with clear. The bottom part is where the metal & paint peeled off leaving the black bare plastic. Thank you for any insight. This has been very frustrating. You can see some of the remaining metal on the edges.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2021 10:11 pm
what I've done with chrome pieces or the flash chrome over plastic, like letters and so on is to etch them in a glass beadier. hold the nozzle back and shoot it just enough to dull the finish to close and you can lift the plating. after you get it well etched wipe it clean with some wax and grease remover. be sure to let it dry good. mix some epoxy to the sealer option and spray one light even coat. try to avoid a heavy film thickness. now you ready to top coat after letting the epoxy flash. i like to give it about an hour in normal temps. I've had good luck doing it this way.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2021 12:22 pm
Thanks for the insight. Not sure I could get my grill into my cabinet. Just seems like I am over complicating this to some extent. I just don't like doing things the wrong way and then being surprised when the paint just peels off. There are tons of YouTube videos of guys just scuffing up their grill and nailing it with Krylon spray paint and claiming it lasts for years. I just cannot imagine that being true.



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2021 7:55 pm
Me ether, a lot of U-tube stuff is B *
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 09, 2021 4:30 pm
Apologize for my ignorance but when you say mix some epoxy to the sealer is that a single step? So etch it and seal it? I know primer and sealer are two different things based on whether you need to build to sand which isn’t necessary on these pieces. So an epoxy sealer and basecoat etc afterwards?



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 09, 2021 7:49 pm
you can reduce epoxy and use it as a sealer when you go to buy some epoxy or any other paint product GET the information sheet, NOT the MSDS sheet. the information sheet will tell you how much to reduce it for the sealer option. IF you use fine beads it should just take one med coat of epoxy sealer then after an hour ( check your info sheet on this ) shoot the base and then your clear. if you test the epoxy for adhesion and it scrapes off this is normal, it takes a few days to cure and adhere well. don't try and use it in cold temps below 60 the cure time will greatly be reduced. good luck.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay

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