First paint job Sanded through clear and base
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In the process of sanding I have a couple of spots where I cut too deep to get the dirt out and the base is too thin and a few spots where I just cut through the clear. I'm not sure how to correct these spots. Any advice on how to proceed is greatly appreciated. If you need more information please let me know. |
Oh dear! Now you'll have to take it all off again, back to bare metal and re-do.
Nah, just having you on. Lightly dust colour over the problem spots, blending in to surrounding area. Re-clear. Don't sand edges. Chris
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If I had to sand it off and start over I would seriously consider just driving it as it.
So if I dust the base on those areas I don't sand the base and then clear back over everything once those spots flash? Also, if I don't and any of the edges will the next coats of clear still adhere properly or do I risk a chance they will peel later? Thanks a bunch for taking time to reply and help me out. I am admittedly a noob and enjoy learning. |
Did you activate your base coat? This helps greatly in situations like this to keep the exposed base coat from wrinkling due to solvent be applied in fresh base.
Assuming your clear coat is all sanded on the panel, simply do as Chris said. "Lightly dust" the exposed areas with base. Let that flash completely and then dust it again. Repeat until the exposed area cannot be seen anymore. Then you simply shoot a couple more coats of clear over the entire panel. In your case I would be sure every area was touched up with fresh base and then shoot 3 coats of fresh clear over the entire car. This will give you plenty of build for your cut and buff. Just remember that edges and body lines always have less clear on them than the rest of the panels do. Here are pics of a sand through I did when trying to get a piece of dirt out of my clear coat. Base applied (sorry for the small picture size on this): Fresh clear applied: 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Unfortunately I did not use any activator as the base i used (Sherwin Williams Dimension) called for 2 parts color 1 part reducer so that is all I applied. I will give this a try using my small touch-up gun. Thank you both for the advice.Wish me luck!
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Watch using a touch-up gun for this. It will lay down paint differently than a full size gun which can give you a "different" look. Sometimes it's no big deal....other times it just doesn't look right....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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Happy Thanksgiving guys.. Well, I was able to dust the color on like you guys advised and that came out great but I have A LOT of tiny specks all over.
Is it possible that fog of clear thats in the air is drying and falling back down before I'm done and open the door to vent? I have the heater on to get the temperature of the car to about 80 then shut it off and spray. I'm wondering if the temperature up at the ceiling is maybe 90+ and is causing the clear in the air to "fall out" and back down into my fresh clear. Has anyone seen this happen or is this possible? Thanks again for your help. |
You should have air flow through your booth.
Over spray will then be escorted out rather than dropping back onto your car. If it is indeed clear over spray you are seeing, it will go away when you do your final cut and buff. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Yea, I know I should but I didn't realize this was why. Live do and learn I suppose. Hopefully when I get to buffing it will blend in.
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