Rustoleum Masstone Gloss Tint

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 10:12 am
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:
Olds9885 wrote:
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Thanks for the suggestion. Are there any lower cost auto paints you know of? I'm not that familiar with brands out there.


What do you consider to be "low cost"?


Think I would say my budget is around 200 more or less.


What exactly are you painting that you care so little about? $200 wouldn't cover the primer costs on a vehicle.[/quote]

A 96 Saturn that somebody painted yellow...with corvette style racing stripes. All of this done with a rattle can and very poorly. I have no shame so I bought the car because I wanted a beater. It was cheap. Love it honestly, but I'm very much over the bad paint job. This is a Saturn with 215k+ miles on it.

Anything is going to look better than what it is, and I'm likely going to be its last owner. So my logic was Rustoleum being cheap, yet much more respectable of a paint than a rattle can is good enough for me. I've done rattle can jobs too that turned out fine, but having access to all the pneumatic spray equipment just makes sense to do that with a better, albeit "wrong" type of paint for an automotive application when low cost is the main goal. I've painted car parts with it before and I was fine with the outcome, and I guess at the end of the day that's all that matters. At least that's the way I look at it.

If I stick with using the Rustoleum, I would use their can of their rusty metal primer adding japan drier as a drying accelerant. I'm sure people are falling out of their seat reading that, but again experience has shown me it worked for my expectations. Used it on a van roof once and its still holding up. There's a good amount of people on forums such as the HAMB showing off their Rustoleum jobs and some are actually pretty impressive. Same line of thinking. Beater project needs paint but not willing to stoop as low as rattle cans.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 10:23 am
Clean it, sand it to a decent level of prep.....wait for a sale or coupons..... take it to Maaco.....
Kid down the street wanted me to paint his car.... I said no you don't. Told him how to sand it down and get it ready for paint. He ended up spending $300 for an economy job.... Looks decent and he is happy as a clam.....
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 11:01 am
Look at this place if you want a low cost paint.
I've used it many times.

http://dadscustoms.com/autobody_supplie ... s-1/kirker
JC

(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 11:12 am
DarrelK wrote:Clean it, sand it to a decent level of prep.....wait for a sale or coupons..... take it to Maaco.....
Kid down the street wanted me to paint his car.... I said no you don't. Told him how to sand it down and get it ready for paint. He ended up spending $300 for an economy job.... Looks decent and he is happy as a clam.....



I might just do that. The only reason I didn't immediately consider that is because I am very much a DIY kinda person. Anything within reason I'll try my hand at, and I learn a lot along the way. I do understand your response saying "you don't want to paint it" though. The few times I've done any auto parts painting I learned quickly that you have to be dedicated to wanting to do it yourself to see it through. It's also why I never had any interest in being a pro auto body guy. It's an art that I only have so much patience for. But I hear you, it's important to understand how labor intensive and grueling painting a car is when you're idea of painting a car isn't just spraying over the existing paint with a rattle can, and if you don't understand that it quickly tuns into one of those in over your head projects. It's equivalent to the kid that wants to turbo his clapped out car with an Ebay turbo because he saw some high dollar pro build on youtube and had stars in his eyes. Where I differ is I have enough experience to know I am not getting no high dollar build out of what I am attempting, and I'm ok with that.

The other reason I didn't just go with a cheap job at a shop is because I wanted to have some fun with pigments, which I've never messed with. I have done enough research to know that it falls in line with kandies and that's a beast within itself, but I have the confidence that I wouldn't botch it that bad. I mean I totally could, but that's living and learning and I fully understand what I'm risking.



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 11:14 am
JCCLARK wrote:Look at this place if you want a low cost paint.
I've used it many times.

http://dadscustoms.com/autobody_supplie ... s-1/kirker


Thank you for this. Those are great prices for what you get. Gonna look more into this and its definitely an option I'll consider.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2021 11:07 pm
Olds9885 wrote:........The other reason I didn't just go with a cheap job at a shop is because I wanted to have some fun with pigments, which I've never messed with. I have done enough research to know that it falls in line with kandies and that's a beast within itself, but I have the confidence that I wouldn't botch it that bad. I mean I totally could, but that's living and learning and I fully understand what I'm risking.

I see where you're coming from, Olds9885. There's no use putting lipstick
on a pig, so to speak.

JCClark's website would be very hard to beat for low pricing. They even
sell Kandies, and even the (lower) quality would be better than the MatteTone.

If you do decide on the MatteTone, there's a waterbased crosslinker available,
made by System Three Resins (WR-LPU) that will make it more durable.

I say experiment with that Saturn and have fun... :rockon:
"If you can't move it, paint it." - U.S. Army



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2021 11:34 am
Olds9885 wrote:
A 96 Saturn that somebody painted yellow...with corvette style racing stripes. All of this done with a rattle can and very poorly. I have no shame so I bought the car because I wanted a beater. It was cheap. Love it honestly, but I'm very much over the bad paint job. This is a Saturn with 215k+ miles on it.


215k miles- its just broke in!
i had a 96 DOHC. couldnt kill it. had a few gremlins. cruise would shut off or hammer the pedal when if felt like it. wipers would turn on by themselves and stop when they felt- no matter where they were on the windshield.
and killer gas mileage.

check out the kirker line. they arent bad. i doubt your planning a cut and buff so a gallon should cover ya. sold in 3/4 gallon then add quart of activator.



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2021 2:11 pm
tomsteve wrote:
Olds9885 wrote:
A 96 Saturn that somebody painted yellow...with corvette style racing stripes. All of this done with a rattle can and very poorly. I have no shame so I bought the car because I wanted a beater. It was cheap. Love it honestly, but I'm very much over the bad paint job. This is a Saturn with 215k+ miles on it.


215k miles- its just broke in!
i had a 96 DOHC. couldnt kill it. had a few gremlins. cruise would shut off or hammer the pedal when if felt like it. wipers would turn on by themselves and stop when they felt- no matter where they were on the windshield.
and killer gas mileage.

check out the kirker line. they arent bad. i doubt your planning a cut and buff so a gallon should cover ya. sold in 3/4 gallon then add quart of activator.


Thanks for the tips. I've been looking at the kirker stuff and it's probably what I'm going to end up using if I end up going with proper paint.

I know! I've never owned a Saturn prior to this and it's a really cool car. The history of Saturn is a really interesting too. You can tell there was love put into designing the SC. For 124hp that DOHC with a manual is pretty fun to drive when you look at it from the perspective of an economy car. Mine burns oil like any other. Oil control rings are seized from that oil drainback design flaw on the pistons, but I just make sure she has oil. I mean, I guess it's just an early oil change lol. Knowing me I'll probably end up rebuilding it if it ever were to finally go, but there's no indicator of that happening anytime soon. Still can do a burnout and jack rabbit pulls, but I mostly baby her. Takes me where I need to go. Loyal car.



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2021 2:34 pm
NightTrain wrote:
Olds9885 wrote:........The other reason I didn't just go with a cheap job at a shop is because I wanted to have some fun with pigments, which I've never messed with. I have done enough research to know that it falls in line with kandies and that's a beast within itself, but I have the confidence that I wouldn't botch it that bad. I mean I totally could, but that's living and learning and I fully understand what I'm risking.

I see where you're coming from, Olds9885. There's no use putting lipstick
on a pig, so to speak.

JCClark's website would be very hard to beat for low pricing. They even
sell Kandies, and even the (lower) quality would be better than the MatteTone.

If you do decide on the MatteTone, there's a waterbased crosslinker available,
made by System Three Resins (WR-LPU) that will make it more durable.

I say experiment with that Saturn and have fun... :rockon:



Thank you. I bought some pigment powder online. It's like a "cosmic" blue that I planned on adding to either a black or a darker blue base. It has some flake but I wanted to go for a subtle look. Like could only see it if the sun hit it right subtle. Nothing flashy.

I did find a product by Speedokote called "clear mixing base" and it seems to be the "proper" automotive grade product in place of the Rustoleum Masstone. From my understanding, this is one way you would go about to make pigment powders "pop" when mixed with base color. Almost like mixing a clear coat with base. I do know that clear base isn't the same as clear coat and that it's generally frowned upon to mix them unless you know what you're doing.

I read a common method is to top coat with a clear/flake mix, but I want to make sure I get a subtle look and not too flashy. It also requires me to get a clear coat regardless of if I wanted to or not. I like the idea that the clear base and base color itself may be glossy enough, and with a hardener that might just be good enough for me to be happy with. Also why single stage paints are looking enticing. I've just read color base could completely bury flake if mixed directly into that alone so I'd have to experiment.

Where I'm a bit green on is figuring out exactly what products play well with others. I try to find the TDS documents for the products I come across, but sometimes they aren't provided and I don't have the experience to know in that regard. I did email Speedokote inquiring if that product would work with Rustoleum alkyd paints. But again, I'm not dead set on using that paint, and the more suggestions for "real" paints you guys give me the more I'm being persuaded away from Rustoleum, but I just wanted to know.

Either way my plan is to do a test run on some scrap material and do exactly what I plan to do on the car with whatever products, and see the end result. If it works it works and if not I know the products didn't play well together.
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