you do very similar to this ^^^^, but use "Dupont 222 Mid Coat Adhesion Promotor". do some research on it and follow the instructions. it works very good for me. on your aerosol blending agent it's probably just not compatible with what you're doing and your materials.NFT5 wrote:Righto. Let's go back to OP's original question.
Can clear be blended in? Of course it can.
Is it the "best" way to do it. No, certainly not best practice, but cheaper shops and mobile repairers do it all the time and, with some practice, it can be done so it's not (really) visible.
Will the edge come back and be visible in time, say a year or two? Yes. Rebuffing the edge usually fixes it again, temporarily.
Surface where you're going to put your blend must be prepped with P1500-P2000, beyond where the edge will be. Take the first coat of clear to about 50mm short of where you want the final edge to be and slightly feather out. Take second coat of clear over the edge of the first coat and feather where you want the final edge to be. Don't tilt the gun and spray beyond this line. Almost immediately swap guns and fit a mini or midi gun (say around 1.0mm with a really fine atomisation) which has been pre-loaded with a quality blending thinner. I use the Cromax one because I haven't used another that's better, but if you stick with the major brands you should be ok. Mist the blending thinner on. And I mean MIST. Very light spray about 50mm each side of where you finished the last coat of clear. Too much and it will run, too little and you won't melt the clear at the join in.
After the clear has fully dried, LIGHTLY buff over the edge. If you go too heavy you'll pick it up and peel it back and that's a rework.
Remember that at this edge the clear is too thin to do its job properly so expect that it will lift and peel later.
Oh yeah. The haze. Likely possibilities are that basecoat wasn't finished far enough back or that it was just put on too heavy (likely with a spray can) or that it was not the right kind of thinner (also highly possible). Substrate clear and new clear do need to be compatible or the blending thinner will melt one but not the other.
Lastly, would I do it on a black door? No way, unless there was a clear line like a rub strip or sharpish body line that I could hard mask or fly mask to and then just blend the clear along the bottom of the door. Even then, fraught with bad possibilities. The technique works best on narrow areas like quarter to cant rail or pillars or bumper bar sections. On a door I'd just clear the whole door - quicker to mask and takes the same time to paint. So you use an extra 100ml of clear. Who cares - the job is better and you're not giving yourself grief over trying to master a technique that some pro painters never get right.
Jay D.