Removing rust from rear wheel hub

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 7:56 pm
1. Couldn't stand the rust on the rear hub.
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2. Cleaned with wire brush, Scotch pad, and rubbing alcohol to remove loose rust scales.
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3. Brushed on phosphoric acid for 15 minutes (estimated at 15% strength, Klean-Strip Concrete and Metal Prep, diluted 1:3 per instructions), rinsed with damp cloth, and finally cleaned with rubbing alcohol. To my surprise, phosphoric acid removed quite a bit of rust in addition to converting some to black iron phosphate.
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4. Brushed on VHT Caliper Paint SP734 Gloss Black, about 2 coats. I wish the paint were not so thick. Hope the paint helps slow down rusting without interfering with the wheel sensor operations.
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Comments and suggestions are appreciated!



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Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2004 10:18 am
PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 10:28 am
Have you ever tried Evaporust?
Pretty amazing stuff.
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Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 11:19 am
Media blasting is the method I prefer.
Here you can see before and after pictures of rotors:
Rotors Sandblasted.JPG


When using rust removers/converters you must be sure to properly neutralize them before applying any primers or paints. These products leave a film and although not always visible to the eye, will cause adhesion problems.

I found this out the hard way by using a metal prep/rust remover on the roof of my signature car. Everything looked great until I started buffing the clear coat and I noticed a blister would rise up and when I stopped buffing it would go back down.

Something obviously wasn't right so I cut into the blister. Everything came off with the paint chips, epoxy primer, build primer and base and clear were all on the chips. The only thing remaining was the metal prep.
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I had to strip the entire roof and remove the rust converter before repainting.
Now I clean the metal of any rust and go directly to epoxy primer.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2022 8:09 am
So how would you clean all of the metal prep now after having experienced that horror show. You obviously needed to kill the rust that sanding couldn't get to.



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Posts: 104
Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2004 10:18 am
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2022 10:53 am
That is heart breaking to see the damage to your new paint!! So sorry.
Yes I prefer blasting also plus it leaves a great surface for the paint to grab on to. Just be VERY careful if doing soda blasting and be aware there are paint companies who dislike soda so much they remove any warranty for their product if soda is used.

I stopped years ago using miracle in a can stuff. Por-15, rust bullet all that stuff is a crutch at best and I never had any of those products hold up over time. You simply MUST remove the rust. Any way you like but it just won't work covering up rusty metal.

Now blasting has it's down sides and somethings just are too delicate for me to put in the blast box. That's where Evaporust comes in-expensive to I only use it when I have too. Very good on tools!

For cheaper rust removal I use vinegar a good bit and want to try citric acid and molasses in the future. Just can't find molasses in bulk at a cheap price? Tried feed stores too.
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