I am on a car forum with another member from Autobody 101,. He recommended that I post up about my current dilemma and get some feedback from the group here.
The back story:
I have been working on a 240z for about 10 years now. It was stripped down, media blasted, epoxy primed, Nason select prime high build.
Finished color is like a Ferrari yellow
I had it all ready on Tuesday, wet sanded at 600, etc.
I shot a white sealer coat on Wednesday before the yellow base coat. I have had the sealer for a while a year or two. I evidently didn't get it mixed well enough because the coverage was terrible and I had major runs on one side of the car. I did better on the other side of the car but still didn't have great coverage. It also seemed to have tons of trash in it, but it was also in the rocker panels and rear valance. Which makes me think it was in the paint; not trash settling out of the air.
So I spent an hour or an hour and a half at Finishmasters yesterday. He really wants me to get all the sealer coat off the car. He is concerned about the poor mixing. Sanding this all off is gonna take a while. Maybe 60 hours or so. I am also cutting through the primer to metal in some areas because the sealer is so hard to get off.
If I have to remove it I guess I will but there are rocker panels, hinge areas, rear hatch etc. that will have to be finger sanded to get it all off.
Looking for advice.
Thanks, Charles

first a couple of questions did you tack rag the surface before the sealer coat? did you check the bottom of the can to see if it had any paint that didn't get mixed properly? next did you strain your sealer before you sprayed it on? now, your application was to heavy or wet. when applying sealer shoot the first coat with just enough paint to get minimal coverage, thats all thats needed its not a filler type material so to speak. sad to say but your FinishMaster guy is most likely correct it SHOULD come off. without knowing what caused the problem it could cause problems later.
here's another suggestion you might try. sand one or two panels smooth with some 600 then buy some new sealer and shoot it agian and see how it works. i would check your info sheet about recoating the sealer times and sensitivity. from my experiance with sealers and i use the Select Seal, is that at certain dry times if you try and recoat it you'll get some lifting especially at sand throughs. its a special problem you have and the real best answer is i would get it all off.
Jay D.

Jay,
Thanks for the response

Yes, I did tack the car after W&G remover.
I also did strain the paint.

I shook the sealer upside down on my paint shaker for about 15 minutes. Then right side up for about 15 minutes. I didn't notice any solids on the bottom of the stirrer, but there must have been, because it covered terribly. Worse than a candy.

I also tend to shoot a little on the light side. The P sheets call for " 1 medium wet coat to coverage" I was really caught off by how bad the coverage was. So I added a little more to get coverage. I have never used sealer before, so I didn't really know what to expect. I went around to the other side of the car and shot it and when I looked at the first side, it hard run badly.





I have already started cutting the sealer coat off the car. I can get most of it off but it's going to be really hard to get it all off. Window channels, cowl, drip rails around the hatch, etc. I will get all of it off the main panels and as much as possible off the other areas but it seems really difficult to get it all off the car. Everything will be feather edged but not 100% clean.
I am already cutting down to metal in areas because the sealer is so hard and the high build surrounding it is not. So I am going to have to shoot epoxy again.
My plan at this point is to shoot a coat of ********** white epoxy and then stack Nason Select prime over that, as the whole car will have to be blocked again.

I have already decided against Select Seal again. If I run a sealer coat, I would probably use the ********** reduced

Thoughts?

for sure the select sealer is a real thin bodied material and needs to be sprayed in light to med coats. its relatively hard to use if you're not use to useing a single stage solvent-based sealer. you should be ok with getting it off the way you describe. i don't know how many sand throughs you have, BUT you might just mix some epoxy regular mix and spot spray the bare spots. personally i would just shoot the hi-build at this point, i'm sure its direct to metal but check. you're going to have quite a buildup, your first epoxy coat, hi- build, then epoxy, hi-build, a sealer of some kind? and then topcoats, thats 7 posible coats. also don't forget you can use the hi-build as a sealer. i realize you want the white for a base under your yellow and your white * epoxy is GOOD for that. be warned any of the old sealer MAY lift at the broken edges. its just like uncatalyzed topcoats it doesn't like solvent based material on broken edges. it may not be a problem but something to think about.
Jay D.

Thanks for the thoughts. I will keep that in mind

what tip size ya spraying this through?