Paint process

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2022 9:52 am
Hi first post. Have a 69 Pontiac catalina that had all the bodywork done and primed in 1985. Had been sitting in a garage ever since. I sanded the entire car and finish is smooth and no signs of failure. Will be painting myself with a Fuji mini mit 5 turbine. Question. I’m thinking of spraying a few coats of 2k urathane primer and block sanding with 400 and 600 and then shoot base snd clear. Will this be a good plan or do I need to spray a coat of epoxy before the urathane primer. Trying to keep the steps to a minimum since I’m spraying in my garage. Car is taken apart for ease of painting.



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2022 12:53 pm
:welcome: it would be best if you could spread a little more information on us. like what type of primer was put on the metal back in 85? what color are you planning on? has the primer ever been sanded? pictures? and anything else you can think of, it all helps.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2022 1:03 pm
Sorry not sure what was used in 85. I have sanded the car with 280. Plan on a dark moss green paint and clear coat from TCP.



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2022 2:07 pm
Think I might just go with a single stage paint.



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2022 3:42 pm
Jimbo wrote:Sorry not sure what was used in 85. I have sanded the car with 280. Plan on a dark moss green paint and clear coat from TCP.
I think I would want to sand and apply a known primer. I'm far from the experience the pro guys here have so I'd take their advice.



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2022 4:07 pm
Agree. I think I will spray 2-3 coats of a 2k urathane primer and then block sand smooth with some 400 and then spray a single stage paint.Does anyone have experience with the products from TCP.



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2022 4:16 pm
Jimbo wrote:Agree. I think I will spray 2-3 coats of a 2k urathane primer and then block sand smooth with some 400 and then spray a single stage paint.Does anyone have experience with the products from TCP.
The only thing I would add would be to sand and spray a small area just to be sure the new primer does not lift the old stuff due to an incompatibility issue. I've had that on a bike or 2 and needed to go right down to bare metal.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2022 12:24 am
So a primer that is "unknown" sitting for almost 37 years.... those old primers depending on just what they were could be very hygroscopic, simply meaning they could attract moisture. Paint is just sooooo expensive now and to be putting that paint plus labor over the "unknown" woudn't work for me. For no longer than it would take me.... I'd be sanding it off and also checking out the bondo situation that is probably under there as well.

Oh, and TCP Global, they are a little hit and miss sometimes. I ordered 100 measured quart cups from them one time and they sent me 1. I was repairing a TCP Global base coat and ordered that, plus some reducers/hardeners, etc. Box had no packing inside and 3 out of 4 cans were leaking. That also ruined some rolls of premium masking tape I had bought. They had me take pictures of everything before they would send me a replacement. I sometimes catch some sales on Ebay and it will be TCP Global as the supplier. Ebay must keep them inline as I always get those orders fast and well packed. Just got a full bedliner kit from them in about 3 days. Like I said kind of hit or miss.....
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2022 8:10 am
Agree with DarrellK. Lots of time, effort and money over an unknown foundation. 1985 could be lacquer primer. It was still being used a lot then. The paint? solid color, or metallic? If solid, single stage is fine, if metallic pr pearl, do BC/CC. IF metallic, you may want to jamb the parts, and paint it all together. Much more consistent results for a beginner.



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2022 8:21 am
Can I prime a door and wait and see if there is any problem with adhesion and if not proceed. Will I know right away. I know best is to take down to bare metal but just hate to since dad is nice a sand straight now.
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