First post, first project, hammer and dolly questions

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2022 7:56 am
Hammer, and dolly, and patience is all it needs. A shrinking disc would help, too. If you're really 'into' doing fine metalwork, a bullseye pick is a good tool, too. But not necessary.



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2022 11:47 am
Shrinking disc can be helpful at times, but the problem I have with it is that if your panel is not stretched, then why shrink it. You will be shrinking the highs and then have to stretch the lows. Or, you could easily shrink parts of a panel too much.

The Volvo didn't look like stretched metal, just needs more hammer and dolly work.
Patience, as mentioned already.



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2022 5:03 pm
Thats when a Good Buck or Tape form comes in handy.
I like Tape forms
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2022 11:29 pm
One thing that has made this job tougher is the way the body and the trunk floor meet. It's hard two get a clean shot with the step of the floor where the back swing is. There is a big drop from the floor to the back of the body. I dug up this picture from the web.

Image


It's probably 8" down from the truck floor. The little support brace seemed to get in the way too. I think a hammer without a head at the back would give me a better angle for moving the metal outward. I have seen those. What about the hammers with a long curved neck, like a door skin hammer?



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2022 8:20 am
Agree, it's a problem area. But you can also drive up lows, with a dolly on the inside, and a slapper on the outside. To get the leverage on the dolly, you may need to put a bar or 2 x 4 behind it, and push out, while either hammering around the low, or using a slapper, or slapper file, on the outside.
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