^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Yes, on evrerything said there.... I've seen contractors screw up with epoxy on steel sub frames and panels. Project inspectors went through a month later and made them scrape it all off....... The stuff does not like cool/cold and YOU don't know when it's done curing. Just because you can't get your fingernails into a paint surface doesn't mean it is done hardening....

i was only going to use the turbo heaters get the garage temps up to 80, then run an electric heater in my plastic sheeting "paint booth" i also made an exhaust fan ventilation system out of a 1500 cfm blower fan and some 8 inch flexible duct to get all the dust out of the air prior to doing my prep wash with wax & grease remover. then ill run the furnace to maintain the garage temps and the electric heater over night while the first coat dries. The issue is the garage size, it's like 12'x60' with 20' ceilings, trying to keep it at a 60 is a massive waste of heating oil and I can't afford to have any more delivered at this time. And unfortunately this can't wait the trucks already disassembled and the body is lifted off the frame on jacks and it's my work truck that I need to tow my dump trailer so I can do my side jobs cutting trees and i have alot of people waiting for work to be completed and my bank account is running dry. I never anticipated this project to take as long as it has. But it is what it is. If i have to go back over over it this summer and sand the paint down to get a better finish i will but I at least need to get some primer and filler on the bare metal before I start driving it.

Do I need to wait for the epoxy to totally cure before I can start applying body filler? I know it's been done for decades but I just don't like the idea of apply the filler directly to metal. and not to sound like a smart **** but how do body shops make any money in the winter if there just sitting on cars taking up space in their shops waiting for stuff to cure?

This is copied straight from the manufacturers TDS sheet, it says it can be filled after two hours. Am I being overly optimistic think I can get 2 coats of primer on, filled and sealed in one day?

As a Primer (Direct to bare metal): Stir 2K Epoxy Primer Sealer thoroughly before using. Mix primer and activator components using a 1:1
ratio. NO INDUCTION TIME IS NECESSARY. Apply 1 - 2 medium wet coats. Allow 10 - 15 minutes flash time between coats. Allow to air dry 30
minutes at normal temperatures (70 - 85°F, 21 - 30°C) or force dry for 15 minutes at 140°F, (60°C) before applying additional topcoats.
As a Sealer/Groundcoat/Precoat: Thoroughly clean and prepare substrate. Mix 1:1:10% by volume. Apply 1 full wet coat. (If desired, a second
coat may be applied after 10 - 15 minutes.) Allow to air dry 30 minutes at normal temperatures 70 - 85°F (21 - 30°C) or force dry for 15 minutes
at 140°F, (60°C) before applying additional topcoats.
Recoatability: 50°F (10°C) 70°F (20°C) 100°F (38°C) 140°F (60°C)
Recoatable Wet-On-Wet 45 minutes 30 minutes 20 minutes 15 minutes
Recoatable w/ Body Filler 2 hours 1 hour 45 minutes 30 minutes
• After the drying time listed in the table above for Wet-On-Wet, 2K Epoxy Primer Sealer can be topcoated as a Wet-On-Wet system with 2K
Primer Surfacers.
• Recoat Body Filler after the stated dry times using 2K Primer Surfacers
• When recoating with Polyester Primer 6541-G allow 2K Epoxy Primer/Sealer 6100 Series to cure for 24 hours before the application of
Polyester Primer.
Film Build: 0.3-0.6 mils percoat (dry film thickness)

Rsrguy3 wrote:Oh boy... The epoxy will eventually cure, even lower then 70, but you'll absolutely have to wait to coat it with anything, until it's totally cured.

When you say coat do you mean paint?