Majic enamel application failure

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2022 8:31 pm
:goodpost: i've done MANY jobs just like yours. what i do is take a spray bottle with some solvent or wax and grease remover and a brush. go around and scrub all the greasy oily places and rinse with water, try not to let the cleaner dry. then wash with a good detergent, you can use your pressure washer here. then after its dry mix some epoxy as a sealer and shoot one med coat let dry ( check your epoxy recoat times ). then top coat in the recoat time. getting it clean before you do anything is important i've always done this and never had any problems. i've done log truck dump truck undercarriages , large heavy equipment and so on this way. i have found that solvents and so on can create problems in that they just soften the grime and spread it around. what really helps in the end is a GOOD wash down with plain soap and water, Dawn dish soap.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2022 8:20 pm
Well, for what its worth, I have an update for anyone that is interested. I'll explain what I did and you can draw your own conclusions.
So, as I explained before, I primered both outside and the insides of the parts with rustoleum red oxide primer, but I only sanded, pressure washed and wiped down with Klean Strip paint thinner (yes, thank you for pointing out my clerical spelling error, auto correct) on the outside of the parts. The adhesion failure occurred on both sides of the parts when I tried to spray with the Majic enamel that I had reduced and added a hardener. So I decided to test with other products, I bought a spray can of rustoleum enamel and went back to tractor supply and bought a spray can of Majic enamel paint in the same color red as what I tried to spray.
I then proceeded to follow the manufacturers recommendations of wiping down the part with paint thinner, let it dry and then sprayed with rustoleum in a spot and Majic enamel in a spot. The coverage was fine, no adhesion issues, no fish eyes. So I then sprayed on the back side of a part that had not been sanded or wiped down with paint thinner, and the coverage looked exactly the same. I thought, well if those worked, maybe I should try the Majic again, but this time instead of reducing and spraying, I just used a brush (yes this can be brushed on). I once again wiped down a spot with paint thinner and let dry, then I brushed on over the paint thinner area and again over and area that had not been sanded or wiped with paint thinner. No adhesion problems there either, looked fine, except for the brush strokes.
So, this leads me to believe that I either messed the mix up some how, or contaminated the mix through the gun or hose or compressor. I am waiting on new filters to arrive before trying to spray again this weekend. In the meantime, I am sanding parts and will reprimer all before trying a fresh coat. I will not wipe down with paint thinner this time, I did pick up a wax and grease remover, and I will not pressure wash this time either.
After I reprime with rustoleum red oxide primer, is it necessary to scuff, or could I spray directly over it with out having to sand it all again?
FYI, this stuff is a pain to sand off, not sure if its due to the hardener, but clogs my sand paper terribly. The spots definitely stop at the primer, I can tell when I get it sanded down and the fish eyes disappear and its just as all the red is gone and primer is left.



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2022 9:39 pm
I sounds like it could be somewhere in the mixing area or air delivery. could you tell me what you mixed the paint in. and is you air compressor tank dry?
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2022 5:30 am
I mixed the paint in a brand new mixing cup, 8 parts paint, 1 part reducer, 1/2 part hardener, all of it was majic name brand. I then ran it through a strainer and sprayed it, but I could tell immediately that something was wrong.
I have a 60 gallon compressor that I installed an after cooler on, it also has a filter drier before the tank, then another filter at the regulator, and I drain the tank regularly. Then I was using a filter at the gun, and I think this may be where my failure came in. Its a polycarbonate one that has a drain on the side. I ordered some tcp disposable filters that I will be using the next time.
Obviously I cleaned the gun before I used it, but I ran 12 ounces of paint through it and it happened from beginning to end, so I feel like its oil or water from the air.
Any suggestions?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2022 8:27 am
Start with a simple diagnostic.... Put a blow off where you normally connect your gun. Get a tall clear glass.... Point the blow off down into the glass and open it up for a few minutes.... You might see something as simple as a little bit of moisture down in the bottom of the glass... a bigger problem would be more moisture.... and a comletely horrible type problem would be a layering of oil and moisture down in there. When my big compressor started slowly failing years ago we were getting just enough blow by on the rings to start very minor fish eye, it gradually got worse, and then we ended up having oil contamination in the whole system. Replaced the entire compressor unit portion, threw away all of our air hoses, and ripped out and replaced ALL of our hard lines.... contamination does happen and it can be hard to run down.....
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2022 9:54 am
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right now I'm painting the Baja bug we are building using rust oleum enamel.
all acrylic enamels are pretty much the same the thing with enamels are they are very prone to fisheye's. so wiping the things to be painted and how they are wiped down is very important.
I have sprayed enamels countless times over the 40 years of being a painter how ever this is the 1st time for me to spray rust oleum.
funny it sprays just like all other enamels!
I 1st wiped down using a pre paint cleaner this is the proper product to use if you don't want any headaches. you can use things like paint thinner or acetone but I would recommend it.
when you Wie down you wipe the cleaner wet with one clean rag and before it dries wipe it dry. this it what is very important when doing you wipe down for enamels. just wiping the substrate with a rag wet with the cleaner will not clean the substrate. at best it will just have the clean dry on the substrate with a haze of the cleaner.

to save this customer money on the Baja bug build we went with rust oleum clean metal primer. my reduction for the primer was 2 parts primer to 1 acetone then sprayed with a 1.6 tip in my gun. spraying 2 coats with a 15 minute flash between coats.
I let it dry over night and then scuffed it with a red 3M scuff pad.
I then wiped the areas down to be painted with RM 901 cleaner how I stated to wipe a substrate down.
I then mixed the black rust oleum
reduction : 4 parts color to 3 parts acetone to 1 part enamel hardener to one cap full of Japan dryer. and sprayed it using a 1.3 tip in my gun.
you can reduce AKA thin using enamel reducer acetone or paint thinner AKA mineral spirits. any one is fine and all work and do the same thing to reduce the product to get it out of the gun.
enamel hardeners are all the same and comparable .
the Japan dry is good for speeding up the dry and flash times. it's not needed other then if you want to speed up your time spent in the booth.

this rust oleum worked out so good for us we will also be using a special mixed rust oleum very light gray color for the inside of the car.
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