Rebel Racing wrote:tomsteve wrote: For ease of removal (sanding) can I use glazing puty?
i should have said glazing putty in my original post.
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i should have said glazing putty in my original post. |
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And, the more I thought of it, since I wet sand, it wouldn't be the best. |
i would not paint over 2000 grit,
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Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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WHY SURE IT WILL, with the tape your going to cut (dry sand) the major portion of the run off. thats where you get into trouble with the surrounding area. then pull the tape and wet sand the very thin portion left flat. i've done it many times with excellent results. much more quicker and easier. Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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For you, yes. Even for me, most of the time. I was a little surprised to successfully take out a big hanger yesterday, on a curved surface. But I knew exactly how much paint I had on there and did it dry, so some visual cues were there. For guys without a lot of experience I think that the glazing putty method is much safer. I've tried tape and the tendency is to tilt the block to get that little step out. Almost every time that's where I've come to grief, cutting too far into the low side, which always has a thinner coverage anyway. Using a fine putty means that the visual cues are visible even when wet sanding - you keep the block flatter and stop when the putty disappears. Chris
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you guys just need to stop running everything
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Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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HA,HA I kinda had that feeling when we started talking about this we would get some feedback. Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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LOL! I'm far from a competent painter but I rarely get runs when I bc/cc but for some reason (and this is only my 2nd single stage job), I find ss to be more challenging than a bc/cc. Maybe I am weird. |