Hi guys,
I have an old 2000 Subaru Legacy that was my son's car. Being a teenager it's got a few bumps and bruises. Minor body work won't be a problem. My question is this. I don't want to spend a fortune on this project since the car has almost 200,000 miles on it but I plan on driving it a lot and don't want it to look like crap.
The clear coat is failing badly on the hood and one fender. Those I will likely take down to bare metal but I think I can just rough up the rest and shoot primer and go from there. I painted my IROC a few years ago using BC/CC and it tuned out incredible. Will it be cheaper and easier for me to just use a single stage then going BC/CC?
Thanks and open to any suggestions you have.
Need advice on a cheap paint job
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Usually considered as an oxymoron. If the clear is showing any signs of clouding or cracking or peeling it, and the compromised layers beneath, must be removed - completely.
Cheaper, yes. Better? Depends. You haven't given us any information about the colour, although the fact that it has clear over the top indicates to me that it is probably a metallic or pearl. If so, then BC/CC really is the only way to go. You can use 2K direct gloss for solid colours, but it's much thinner than BC/CC and will show any imperfections in your body work as well as being much less forgiving to being over buffed. Chris
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Uh Oh better get Maaco. Seriously, the folks on this site will steer you straight and cheap rarely equates to a proper paint job. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Maybe "cheap" was the wrong word to use. I plan on using quality paint products but I don't want to take the time to take the whole car down to bare metal and remove glass and stuff like that. I'm looking to do a MAACO type job but better. I'll go BC/CC because that's all I know. I'm sticking to original factory color which is a metallic gold.
So on the panels where the clear is not failing, can I just rough that up and shoot primer over it and go from there? Thanks |
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defiantly use the B/C with the metalic gold. you can probably get buy sanding the OEM finish but make sure its sand good. i've done a lot of peelers, and for an inexpensive job i will just strip the upper half ( any area exposed to the direct sun light). if its peeling on the hood the roof is next and soon. for longevity you may think about this. if the paint looks real good on the roof and rear go for it, its up to you. its got 200,000 on it, it can't last forever.
a test you can do, is sand a spot on the roof with a D/A through the clear coat and see if it will feather out nice and smooth. if the feather edge has a broken edge to it, it should come off. its lost its grip and will soon come off on its own. Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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