Panels on or off for base/clear

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2022 7:36 pm
Hello first post here. Did a search but couldn't really find an answer.

Getting reading to base/clear my 96 Mark viii. Took the car down to metal. The car is fully primed with epoxy and urathane. I have taken off pretty much all I could. As is sits the doors are off, the hood, front quarters, front/rear bumpers and trunk lid.

On the fence on painting the car with the panels off, panels on or maybe a partial assembly. Have my two car garage to work in. I primed everything on saw horses and tables and was easy.

Looking for opinions on which was to go.

Other two cars I painted here were sprayed all together. Minus mirrors and trim.

Thanks

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 11:39 am
Are you shooting just a straight solid color, metallic, tri-stage, etc????
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 12:41 pm
Should of mentioned that... Using Eastwood 4:1 Canyon Dusk Copper basecoat. Then their euro over that.

It does have a fine flake in it.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 1:28 pm
I have painted a number of cars in pieces. However, it does take orienting the parts in a position similar to being installed.

You must also be consistent in your spray gun settings and technique.

Painting jambs, engine compartment, inside of trunk, back side of hoods, doors, trunk lid, then assembling the car, masking where needed and shooting the exterior, is probably a better way to go.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 1:53 pm
^^^^^^^^^^^ And what he just said is why I asked..... That is how I would do it as well....
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 3:36 pm
I have the Eastwood Malibu Sunset (metallic Orange) and will also be debating this same consideration. I'm still a few months away as I just finished the engine bay and moving onto the interior.

My biggest hesitation to do the final base-clear with all body panels on is timing. My cups feeding the Iwata are only around 20-oz of paint. To do the full car, I expect that to be at least four 20-oz cups of base and clear. That's eight rounds of mixing, loading, etc. If my engine bay was any indication, this process will take hours which is very difficult to do in one-go. Would love to hear some tips on how to break the car exterior in pieces without inconsistency in the finish.



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 3:47 pm
Sounds like the way to go. Also less risk for damage when re-installing the doors, quarters, hood and deck lid.

So far I have done the jambs, engine bay, backside of the hood and trunk lid. Just need to hit the inside of the doors. Then I'll put it all back together.

Forgot about the front and rear plastic bumpers. Is is best to shoot those on the car also? Only difference they will be getting adhesion promoter before the base and clear. Maybe install bumpers last... spray the bumpers with adhesion promoter the night before then put them on when I do the whole car? Just thinking it could save a little masking work.

Thanks guys



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 3:56 pm
Ahajmano wrote:I have the Eastwood Malibu Sunset (metallic Orange) and will also be debating this same consideration. I'm still a few months away as I just finished the engine bay and moving onto the interior.

My biggest hesitation to do the final base-clear with all body panels on is timing. My cups feeding the Iwata are only around 20-oz of paint. To do the full car, I expect that to be at least four 20-oz cups of base and clear. That's eight rounds of mixing, loading, etc. If my engine bay was any indication, this process will take hours which is very difficult to do in one-go. Would love to hear some tips on how to break the car exterior in pieces without inconsistency in the finish.

One thing that really made it easier when I did my grand marquis is to have everything ready and start first thing in the morning on a cooler day. Also had a helper their outside the garage mixing for me. I



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 7:31 pm
[/quote]
One thing that really made it easier when I did my grand marquis is to have everything ready and start first thing in the morning on a cooler day. Also had a helper their outside the garage mixing for me. I[/quote]


Helper, that's a novel idea! I started at 7am this past weekend and just barely beat the afternoon sun overhead by 11. You are right though, I could have had the masking 100% ready and supplies pre assembled.

Yeah I think a lot of it was just being my first time. Inefficiency when you don’t have the muscle memory and confidence.

Since the urethane still has a reducer inhibiting curing, I’m going to try and mix up 3-4 cups ahead of time next time and leave them all capped. Then I can throw them on and keep going instead of re-mixing for each cup. Amateur move.

The epoxy is another story, since it cures even faster when in the cup all ready to go. I don’t think the standard reducer (acetone) inhibits curing on epoxy. Il have to do some research.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 8:41 pm
Ahajmano wrote:I have the Eastwood Malibu Sunset (metallic Orange) and will also be debating this same consideration. I'm still a few months away as I just finished the engine bay and moving onto the interior.

My biggest hesitation to do the final base-clear with all body panels on is timing. My cups feeding the Iwata are only around 20-oz of paint. To do the full car, I expect that to be at least four 20-oz cups of base and clear. That's eight rounds of mixing, loading, etc. If my engine bay was any indication, this process will take hours which is very difficult to do in one-go. Would love to hear some tips on how to break the car exterior in pieces without inconsistency in the finish.


On larger jobs, I will mix up two or three 24 ounce cups at a time. Just keep them covered until needed, then give them a good stirring before running through the strainer into the paint gun.
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