How much high build primer should I buy

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2022 9:44 am
I’m getting ready for spraying a small car about the size of a VW bug, and thought I should just get a quart of high build ( aka surfacer?) primer to go over my epoxy primer. Like the ********** booklet says to do. The reason I decided on a quart was that none of the three local ( sort of) car paint stores even carry high build primer, or any filler primer at all. One of them being National Coatings which I thought had everything. So I figure, if nobody around here even uses it, surely a quart will do the job. It’s a 60 year old car, but the metal is pretty good. But ********** and Eastwood only sell high build by the gallon. Should I bite the bullet and get a gallon or keep looking for a quart? Thanks

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2022 10:08 am
If you want the car to be straight, it will take 2-3 coats, guide coat, block sanding and possibly 2-3 more coats. Most of it ends up on the floor.

High build primer will require a 1.8 tip (preferably a 2.0) so that enough is applied to get the build necessary.

If you have any left over, it will keep for quite a while.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2022 11:24 am
Thanks, I’ll get a gallon. I have a 1.8 in my DeVilbiss Starting Line gun, my GPG only came with a 1.3 and 1.4



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2022 12:18 pm
almost any reasonable brand of paint has a hi-build primer. make sure you get hi-build primer and don't confuse it with surfacer. i've heard sealer, regular primer and all sorts of stuff called surfacer. so just say hi-build if you order any. I've used the hi-build that was sold here (the first stuff) and it was very good, inexpensive and sent to my door. i used a lot of their other products and was very happy with them. a lot of name brands will sell buy the quart, Nason, and several others do.
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2022 3:01 pm
Bustedwrench wrote:Thanks, I’ll get a gallon. I have a 1.8 in my DeVilbiss Starting Line gun, my GPG only came with a 1.3 and 1.4


that will work fine if you just reduce the primer a little more than usual.
Just allow extra time for curing to let all the solvents get out
or you may see some shrinkage.
I allow 48 hrs min. for primers, and I do over reduce a little.
JC.

(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2022 3:31 pm
Thank you. I’ll be sure to ask for high build.

I have to reduce the epoxy primer to make my sealer so I’ll reduce the high build 10% with the same stuff. I’ll get some new from the same company but I wonder if I can use up some ten year old urethane reducer o got from napa too



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2022 4:33 pm
the 10 year old reducer is PROBABLY OK if it was sealed good. but it's not that expensive and ten years is a long time. you could use the old stuff to clean your equipment.
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2022 8:23 am
badsix wrote:the 10 year old reducer is PROBABLY OK if it was sealed good. but it's not that expensive and ten years is a long time. you could use the old stuff to clean your equipment.
Jay D.


Thank you Jay, Just saw this post, I got new reducer and will use the old quart to clean brushes or something.
I just read online that NIOSH requires minimum 6 CFM for a helmet. But I still wonder if a spray helmet would work for blasting. I've been using a $55 hood helmet I got from Eastman. But its shot.

I can use my organic half face respirator with ski googles for a while until I get this helmet stuff all figured out. I just need to start blasting so I can start spraying.
Thanks, Joe

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