Hi all,

So, I am following the TDS here but I wanted to confirm this is standard-practice. I have fresh DTM epoxy sealer (speedokote) applied in two applications:

1) areas of car that were in bare metal, as a base for filler to build-on.
2) areas of (new) filler that have feathered back to bare metal. In this application, I'm just sealing the hodge-podge of filler layers and exposed steel.

I will be applying urethane high-build primer on the finished body portions (sealed filler), and fresh filler applied to the sealed steel.

TDS says you can apply stuff within 3 days without sanding. Epoxy has had overnight to cure and is stable enough to apply on-top without moving.

Just curious, how does this work? does the epoxy cure against the new applied material slowly? I thought about sanding the sealer on the portions applied over filler, but this segment of the car is very curvy and extreme angles. Im certain I will burn-through quickly with 220, and have to re-apply sealer. seems like sanding the high-build and re-applying that seems easier.

assuming what you say is that you have epoxy on everything you want to work on. if your TDS says 3 day then you should be good, under the 3 day instruction. if its real warm i wouldn't crowed the 3 days, just my thinking.
Jay D.

Thanks badsix. Yeah this car was rusted badly and the metal is real thin (20-gauge) so I'd like a layer of epoxy for the DTM adhesion and another to seal the filler. Plenty of spots where im back to bare-metal when block sanding the filler so that second layer of epoxy is to ensure sealer is applied consistently across the whole panel (like a condom).

Probably a bit overkill, but this is a race-car so I expect some rough-treatment. Knowing I have a good base to start from will give me confidence when repairing the body/paint in the future.

Now I have heard some folks say to use epoxy sealer right under your basecoat, but the primer I am using is urethane as well, from the same manufacturer, and the TDS on both the basecoat and primer say it is appropriate for a primer-base bond when sanded.

Trying to get a layer of filler on the epoxy now, so the shallow spots are covered and get good adhesion. Its these dips where I cant access the rear for hammer-dolly that are the hardest to sand.

usually when someone uses a sealer its applied to a finish sanded panel. the sealer is applied then the appropriate flash time then your base coat, no sanding required. you should be able to use your urathane primer as a wet on wet sealer. it eliminates the need to sand the sealer. it or epoxy will work, epoxy being the more favorable.
Jay D.

Thanks badsix! That all makes sense. Glad to hear the wet-on-wet application is OK. So far so good! Going as fast as I can, and each quarter panel is still averaging me two weeks. Big temperature swings, sunlight, aggressive sanding, and not seeing any delamination, cracking, etc. Always anxious with metal this thin and with so many angles in such a small panel, as it expands/contracts quite dramatically in the sun.

BE SURE to observe the flash times going from one product to another CHECK your instruction sheet.
Jay D.