NFT5 wrote:No Jay, more like this - my latest project

20220114_135850_HDR.jpg

Bustedspanner, I understand where you're coming from. Get yourself some blocks like these.

They're a bit expensive so if you can't or don't want to make the investment, next best is to go down to your local hardware store and get some poly drain pipe in 35mm and 50mm diameters. Also get some poly sheet and some glue. Cut the sheet into 70mm wide strips and a series of cuts in the tube, then glue together. May take a little trial and error but you should end up with a block that is firm but flexible - perfect for doing those big curved panels.

Bustedwrench wrote:Is 2K two thousandths of an inch?

Dunno. 2K means "two component", i.e. a base and a hardener. What's an inch? A full wet coat of 2K primer can be 40-50μm.

Bustedwrench wrote:Going over the whole lot with thin filler’ means the just the whole lot that is being filled?

If you just fill the low spots then you'll end up with a series of islands and, sure as eggs, they'll have a shoreline that won't be level with the metal. Guaranteed.

Filling over the whole surface at the end will let you see these and address them before you get to primer which may not have enough depth to cover/fill.

Bustedwrench wrote:Don’t know about trusting rattle can guide coat enough to leave it on

Get the powder guide coat. More economical that the spray cans and won't clog your paper as much. Works better.[/quote

I don’t see how a guide coat can work on round surfaces, except for finding ng real small lows and highs. I’ll try the can stuff I have and see it it helps. I read that wet sanding primer shows highs and lows fairly well.

Thanks, I have scrap poly pipe but it’s pretty hard, but would sure work in some places.
I don’t see how to post a pic from this phone. Maybe if I get on a computer I’ll get it

Bustedwrench wrote:I don’t see how a guide coat can work on round surfaces,

Watch the video.

A flexible block like this will conform to the curves, giving you nice smooth flows. A hard, flat block will produce flat spots because you just can't keep the exact same pressure across the curve. A soft block won't take out the highs and lows - it will just conform to them.

I did the mudguards on a '28 Chevy recently and the hard blocks were an absolute PITA. I made some up out of poly and they were heaps better.

When you're shaping, dry sanding works much better than wet.

This '55 Chevy truck had plenty of rounded surfaces.
Guide coat and a round Durablock were all it took to get them looking great.





When block sanding, it is important that you do not press super hard on the sanding blocks. If you do, you may flex the panel enough so that you never get it straight.

Sand at a 45 degree angle to the panel going one way and then reverse direction thus using an X type pattern.

As stated earlier, applying 2 coats of epoxy primer to bare metal is best. Then lightly block sand it to reveal your low areas. Apply the filler over the epoxy making sure to extend past the low spot in all directions and then block sand it, feathering into the surrounding epoxy.

In the Guide Coat post, the area was already sanded down to epoxy primer filler area, so additional filler only required minor sanding with a coarser grit to apply some scratch.

[quote="'68 Coronet R/T"]This '55 Chevy truck had plenty of rounded surfaces.
Guide coat and a round Durablock were all it took to get them looking great.





When block sanding, it is important that you do not press super hard on the sanding blocks. If you do, you may flex the panel enough so that you never get it straight.

Sand at a 45 degree angle to the panel going one way and then reverse direction thus using an X type pattern.

As stated earlier, applying 2 coats of epoxy primer to bare metal is best. Then lightly block sand it to reveal your low areas. Apply the filler over the epoxy making sure to extend past the low spot in all directions and then block sand it, feathering into the surrounding epoxy.

In the Guide Coat post, the area was already sanded down to epoxy primer filler area, so additional filler only required minor sanding with a coarser grit to apply some scratch.[/quote
Thanks, I have a gallon of epoxy primer for the bare metal, it’s top quality. Will put 2 coats on. I’ll keep looking but don’t see a round dura block in my Eastwood catalog. I can sure cut my durablock off and made one piece round
Can anybody recommend a good body filler, I like the fiber reinforced idea, how workable, reliable is it? Thanks. BTW I still don’t see how one gets a true picture of the topography of a round body section by using a flat block on guide coat. Everything is too high on a globe

Stay away from the fiberglass reinforced fillers. i don't know where one would use it maybe to bridge rust holes or drilled holes but then they should be welded. i have some and have used it on fiberglass to form part. just use some the other day on a custom dash remake on my H/D. it sands HARD and usually is full of air pockets. i use Rage Extreme applies easy, sands good, and priced reasonable. I've used a ton of different fillers they are not all the same, the Rage seems to be one of the best to me.
Jay D.

Bustedwrench wrote:

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:This '55 Chevy truck had plenty of rounded surfaces.
Guide coat and a round Durablock were all it took to get them looking great.

Door Right Front View.JPG

Hood Buffed.JPG

When block sanding, it is important that you do not press super hard on the sanding blocks. If you do, you may flex the panel enough so that you never get it straight.

Sand at a 45 degree angle to the panel going one way and then reverse direction thus using an X type pattern.

As stated earlier, applying 2 coats of epoxy primer to bare metal is best. Then lightly block sand it to reveal your low areas. Apply the filler over the epoxy making sure to extend past the low spot in all directions and then block sand it, feathering into the surrounding epoxy.

In the Guide Coat post, the area was already sanded down to epoxy primer filler area, so additional filler only required minor sanding with a coarser grit to apply some scratch.[/quote
Thanks, I have a gallon of epoxy primer for the bare metal, it’s top quality. Will put 2 coats on. I’ll keep looking but don’t see a round dura block in my Eastwood catalog. I can sure cut my durablock off and made one piece round
Can anybody recommend a good body filler, I like the fiber reinforced idea, how workable, reliable is it? Thanks. BTW I still don’t see how one gets a true picture of the topography of a round body section by using a flat block on guide coat. Everything is too high on a globe

https://www.amazon.com/Dura-Block-AF440 ... 1115&psc=1

[quote="badsix"]Stay away from the fiberglass reinforced fillers. i don't know where one would use it maybe to bridge rust holes or drilled holes but then they should be welded. i have some and have used it on fiberglass to form part. just use some the other day on a custom dash remake on my H/D. it sands HARD and usually is full of air pockets. i use Rage Extreme applies easy, sands good, and priced reasonable. I've used a ton of different fillers they are not all the same, the Rage seems to be one of the best to me.
Jay D.[/quote

Thanks Jay. I’ll google it and probably find some good new source in the process. Some place fairly close would help