NFT5 wrote:No Jay, more like this - my latest project
Bustedspanner, I understand where you're coming from. Get yourself some blocks like these.
They're a bit expensive so if you can't or don't want to make the investment, next best is to go down to your local hardware store and get some poly drain pipe in 35mm and 50mm diameters. Also get some poly sheet and some glue. Cut the sheet into 70mm wide strips and a series of cuts in the tube, then glue together. May take a little trial and error but you should end up with a block that is firm but flexible - perfect for doing those big curved panels.Bustedwrench wrote:Is 2K two thousandths of an inch?
Dunno. 2K means "two component", i.e. a base and a hardener. What's an inch? A full wet coat of 2K primer can be 40-50μm.Bustedwrench wrote:Going over the whole lot with thin filler’ means the just the whole lot that is being filled?
If you just fill the low spots then you'll end up with a series of islands and, sure as eggs, they'll have a shoreline that won't be level with the metal. Guaranteed.
Filling over the whole surface at the end will let you see these and address them before you get to primer which may not have enough depth to cover/fill.Bustedwrench wrote:Don’t know about trusting rattle can guide coat enough to leave it on
Get the powder guide coat. More economical that the spray cans and won't clog your paper as much. Works better.[/quote
I don’t see how a guide coat can work on round surfaces, except for finding ng real small lows and highs. I’ll try the can stuff I have and see it it helps. I read that wet sanding primer shows highs and lows fairly well.
Thanks, I have scrap poly pipe but it’s pretty hard, but would sure work in some places.
I don’t see how to post a pic from this phone. Maybe if I get on a computer I’ll get it