I’m building a golf cart trailer, nothing fancy, just want it to be black. So I’m looking into primers to see what’s the most cost-effective for what I need. I’m wondering if anybody has any experience with acme finish one products. Specifically FS510. It’s considered a sealer so I’m wondering if it is good to go over bare metal

DYI-pro wrote:I’m building a golf cart trailer, nothing fancy, just want it to be black. So I’m looking into primers to see what’s the most cost-effective for what I need. I’m wondering if anybody has any experience with acme finish one products. Specifically FS510. It’s considered a sealer so I’m wondering if it is good to go over bare metal

Others with more knowledge will chime in, but from the TDS for that SW product it says "Properly prepared and etched bare metal or prepainted substrates" It can also have a hardener added.

Also, it is listed as an Enamel Sealer. Again some of this site's experts will give you more input.

A few around here (including myself) use Tamco's Epoxy - good stuff and versatile.

I’ve read up on primers a little bit so when the guy in the store said this would go straight over bare metal I was a tiny bit skeptical and then when I saw that on the technical data sheet I decided I’d look at it a little closer. I don’t really want to go to the extra step of etching if an epoxy will eliminate that. Thanks for your reply
I’d be happy to pay a little bit more to make sure it doesn’t start flaking off two years down the road because I made a mistake trying to trim cost.

Go with the Tamco

https://tamcopaint.com/products/dta-epo ... 6909140048

or PPG's DP90LV which is bit more plus you need to purchase the hardener separately with the PPG. Tamco's is a kit with the hardener so you will end up with a 1/2 gallon RTS.

Good luck.

From Bare Metal :
Most will use EPOXY let it cure then scuff it then filler as required then Primer let it cure sand it then primer again IF required and as required then sand it if its good then sealer coat or Base coat ? then Clear coat, in that order sanding in between as required and you can expect many years of looking good if you wax it once in a while.

Again from Bare metal :
Acid etch primer, let it cure then scuff it lightly Then regular primer, sand lightly as required never breaking thru to the etch primer!!! then Prime again then light sanding again then light filler & light sanding as required never breaking thru to the Etch coat!!!!! then prime again and more light sanding and filler IF and as required then base coat and clear its the same process for a car and doing it as a car is how I explain to use it.

Is it possible to just etch then scuff then coat with primer then scuff it then go strait to base coat and clear? yes BUT if you break threw to the etch coat at any time re-prime it!
its all easier than it sounds its just a little work to make it all work. Sanding is everything!!!!
The big issue with etch is keeping the Etch coat covered in primer! if you sand threw cover it with primer! as the etch will mess with the Base coat and clear.

Again how good do you wanna make it look? if you want nice you better know how to Sand!!!! with either process! Sanding is EVERY THING!!!!

Just me but I would Blast it it with Glass then use Epoxy its just easier and not as critical when you sand threw. BUT I like Etch for its simplicity and its cheap. worth the extra work in my opinion.

DYI-pro wrote:I’m wondering if it is good to go over bare metal

OldFatBald wrote:TDS for that SW product it says "Properly prepared and etched bare metal or prepainted substrates"

In one word, the answer is "No".

Clean and sand the metal, spray epoxy primer and then black 2K Direct Gloss. That's it, job done. Go play golf.

NFT5 wrote:

DYI-pro wrote:I’m wondering if it is good to go over bare metal

OldFatBald wrote:TDS for that SW product it says "Properly prepared and etched bare metal or prepainted substrates"

In one word, the answer is "No".

Clean and sand the metal, spray epoxy primer and then black 2K Direct Gloss. That's it, job done. Go play golf.

I think this is the direction I was contemplating as most effective and not getting too refined.

Thx for the response’s, very much appreciated.
Harley

Iou can do wet on wet too

On clean freshly Blasted metal, Spray Epoxy then do not let it dry immediately start spraying your single stage, easy.
BUT if Epoxy flashes and you don't get a good wet on wet disaster strikes! and Single stage wont adhere to the epoxy ask me how I know.

I would still allow epoxy to dry and scuff it before single stage.

Some guys wanna work their frames and smooth and do filler work that's why I explained as I did above.

have fun

Doright wrote:I
BUT if Epoxy flashes and you don't get a good wet on wet disaster strikes! and Single stage wont adhere to the epoxy ask me how I know.

That is absolutely FALSE.
Go by the directions of the TDS for your epoxy, all the ones I use
say let sit overnight then paint whatever you like over it,
you don't even need to scuff it first.

JCCLARK wrote:

Doright wrote:I
BUT if Epoxy flashes and you don't get a good wet on wet disaster strikes! and Single stage wont adhere to the epoxy ask me how I know.

That is absolutely FALSE.
Go by the directions of the TDS for your epoxy, all the ones I use
say let sit overnight then paint whatever you like over it,
you don't even need to scuff it first.

Same here.
I think what Dennis is referring to is the chemical adhesion when using epoxy as a sealer.
Even then, most require 30 minutes to an hour before shooting base.