Do they have a weight chart to mix by? That would give you working times?

That would be cool

I have no idea.
Been using it so long, I can tell by the color how long I'll have.

I finished my filling today and must have been using too much hardener, as I used all the hardener, and had 20% of the putty left. So I was a little off in saying it was too fast. could stick with Evercoat pro premium, it worked good. Not a single pin hole and easy to smooth out. Or I might try one of the 3M products recommended here. How long does filler last on the shelf?

It can last a while as is, BUT if you can fill can with an inert gas like Mig welder gas and put lid on quick it can last longer. You can do the same thing with your left over paint products.

They sell cans of Bloxegen for this.

https://www.amazon.com/Bloxygen-Preserv ... L6T3&psc=1

The inert gas is heavier than the air in theory and so it pushes the oxygen out while you install lid. You can also use Carbon dioxide gas, Argon or Mig steel mix.

Its handy IF/when your welder has a Purge function!!!!

I just finished off a can of 3M Marson Platinum that I purchased a year ago.
This is where the Plastik Honey comes into play. If the filler is getting a bit thick, you simply add a small amount of the Plastik Honey and mix it into the filler, then had your hardener and keep mixing.

Thanks, I’ll remember that. Is plastic honey water proof?
Does it matter if a filler is water proof ir not, seems like if it’s exposed to water it’s already needing resurfacing. as the water is trapped in.
Dorght I’ll try that, thanks. I have the 75 argon 25 CO2, I think. No purger but I might figure something out. I definitely will try it on paint as my paint is older than I want to admit.

Plastic Honey is straight liquid styrene. Styrene is NOT the component in body fillers that causes water retention. It is the talc that causes this. Regular fillers like Rage and such are not waterproof however if you are using them right they are should be totally encapsulated in your finishing process. Now, long hair/short hair fiberglass fillers generally are water resistant/possibly proof since they contain little to no talc. Again, that is a general rule of thumb. Look at your MSDS sheets to know what is in the products.....

General rule of thumb is to not expose fillers or 2k build primers to any water or other contaminants.

You can cover them with reduced epoxy 1:1:1 as a sealer, if you will not be spraying your color and clear soon.

Thanks, I covered the doors and fenders with 1:1 regular epoxy, is 1:1:1 better? I’m ready to cover the rest of the filler now, like all the hail dimples on the roof. My single stage color is almost a perfect color match with the grey epoxy, and when I block sand the 2K I do not want to go into that epoxy so I’m planning on using a black epoxy 1:1:1 for a sealer to get the color right, under the top coats. I hope it doesn’t get too confusing when block sanding but will find out tomorrow
I’ll be keeping my eye out for waterproof, just sounds better

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:I just finished off a can of 3M Marson Platinum that I purchased a year ago....

Not really relevant, but a little humorous…

After reading this thread and having my next little 61 Chevy Truck cat-eye hood project coming up soon I figured that I would get some 3M Platinum.

Instead of going to my local jobber which is two towns over I decided to just order it from Jeff Bezos.

This is what showed up! Oh well, live and learn…