Did you have a look at the links to my previous posts?

A fly masked edge, done properly on a nice sharp body line is invisible and will last indefinitely.

But.............the discussion is moot because the damage is so close (20-30mm) so there just isn't enough space to repair, prime, base and clear.

You should get the whole door cleared.

NFT5 wrote:Did you have a look at the links to my previous posts?

A fly masked edge, done properly on a nice sharp body line is invisible and will last indefinitely.

But.............the discussion is moot because the damage is so close (20-30mm) so there just isn't enough space to repair, prime, base and clear.

You should get the whole door cleared.

I feel like a stubborn donkey....-:)

My problem is that u can barely see the stone chips thanks to the design of the door. But it may begin to rust if I leave it as it is.

And u wrote that there are some clear coats that are a bit yellow and this could cause a considerably color shifting. And if that happens i prefer not to do anything (maybe put a protection film on the lower part instead). Or have a little edge. That is why I am like a donkey and continue to think I can do only part of the door....

And since one of the painters said he could do it (he said what i wanted to hear) I got some hope....

The car is blue metallic. Is it a difficult color? In the meaning if u just clear the whole door vs painting and clearing the whole door

im sorry, BUT WHY DID YOU POST A PICTURE OF THE RED CAR??? just have him fix it. it sounds like it needs to be color and clear the complete door the blending of the color is the most important thing. as Chris said there isn't room to do a satisfactory blend. the yellow tint in the clear is NOT going to cause a problem. its only a couple mills thick and on blue you won't see it. let the painter do his job!!! OH, and the paint protection film IS a good idea for you.
Jay D.