Problems with Tamco forever seal?

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2022 6:04 pm
d-rock wrote:
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Once the 2k primer goes down, all I use is solvent based W&G remover.

I wear nitrile gloves when cleaning with the W&G remover and have NEVER had any issues like what you are experiencing.

Not saying that is what caused your issues but seeing the window cleaner in your cleaning process raised my suspicions.


It was taught to me by Kevin Tetz in a class I took from him about 20 years ago.


And yet here you are!
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2022 12:05 pm
d-rock wrote:Its how I was taught. Wax and grease remover doesn't work well on natural oils from your hands so an ammonia based cleanser is also needed. I don't know if it's true or not, but the cleaner the better I say...



Its true Solvent based W/G does not remove human skin oils BUT a water base W/G remover does, as does soap and water.
I routinely will wash my cars after sanding High build and will even wet sand Hi build to 400-600 then wash with soap and water and move directly to Base coat when dry.
Its more work but a clean job.

I have watched Kevin's Video series
Not gonna Bad mouth the man nor question his techniques, As I learned a thing or two from them BUT Their are a Million ways and techniques to painting cars Some good some bad, I have come to learn that what works for one doesn't always work for others for what ever reason.

Your first pic of wrinkling was of solvents eating into prior coat that other one with the Lumps/Bubbling I have no idea. ?

Food for thought:
If you sand out your Hi build and have spots showing after sanding instead of going to Sealer you should have done another coat of Primer then blocked with a finer grit. Till flat and one solid color.

If you have sealed body with Epoxy then Hi build:
Its true Hi-build can absorb water but if the body is sealed with epoxy it doesn't really matter as long as the Primmer is allowed to fully dry. (My opinion)
I Wet sand Primers with 400 for solids and 600 wet for Metallic (Many people do!)
(So If its ok to wet sand it its ok to wash it in my opinion!)
then wash with mild soap water and rinse it well, then push into paint booth allow to fully dry using heat if needed then re mask and go directly to Base coat. As said above Sealer adds an extra layer that's not really needed and adds an additional expense, they say using a Sealer helps with chemical adhesion of the Base coat but I don't think it beats a sanded surface for a toothed mechanical adhesion.

Just my opinions and what works for me.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.
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