So after I applied sealer on my new front a rear bumper, my compressor decided to malfunction. I won't be able to get another compressor for a while so I'll have to leave my bumpers in sealer for now. Would I be able to just scuff my bumpers with a gray scuff pad then shoot base once I do pick up a new compressor (few months)? Or will I have to redo everything all over meaning strip the sealer and re-sealing then shooting base and clear? Any input will help. Thanks.
Johnny
Compressor malfunction after sealer
6 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Non-Lurker
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2023 5:32 pm Country: USA |
|
Without knowing what kind of sealer you've used we have no way of answering your question.
Some sealers are 2K wet-on-wet only, then there are some 2K sealers that can be sanded and then there are epoxies which can fall into either category or be mixed to do so. There are various 1K sealers as well. Best thing to do is just look up the Technical Data Sheet for the sealer you've used. All the information you need will be there. Chris
|
|
Non-Lurker
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2023 5:32 pm Country: USA |
It's Matrix Systems MP-233 DTM (direct to metal) primer surfacer/sealer. The tds says FLASH / DRY TIMES As Primer Sealer Flash Time- 5-10 Minutes To Sand- Nib Sand 20 Minutes To Topcoat- 20-30 Minutes To Topcoat Without Sanding- 8 Hours Max So I'm assuming it would be fine to scuff then shoot since it's a primer surfacer/sealer? Or just redo? If you would know or if anyone would know that would be awesome. |
If you're planning on storing the bumpers in your garage for the next few months until you get another compressor then they should be fine. If you're planning on putting them back on the car and using it then you should plan on re-doing the whole thing down to metal (bumpers?), since primers, even 2K hardened primers, can absorb moisture and become an unsound substrate for top coats.
After 8 hours that primer must be sanded before applying anything over it. Chris
|
|
Non-Lurker
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2023 5:32 pm Country: USA |
Appreciate the input. They're plastic bumpers and will be stored in house. The car isn't in use so I guess it works out. Do you think a gray scuff pad is efficient enough to scuff prior to shooting base when I get to it? |
Non-Lurker
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Feb 25, 2023 1:52 pm Country: USA |
I apologize for reviving an old thread, but figured it was better than starting a new thread as my question is partially answered by the quoted post. Does the above quote apply to epoxy based primers? I live in the desert where the UV is off the charts. This caused the paint on my 2005 Sequoia to give up the ghost over the last year. This truck is near and dear to mine and my wife's hearts, as it's the car we raised our family in. We'll be keeping it another 20 years. I'll be repainting it myself, but will be unable to repaint the entire vehicle in one day. I was planning on working on the car panel by panel over the course of a week or two until it was entirely primered. I was then planning on sanding away any UV damage and prepping the primer for basecoat then clearcoat with 800 grit sandpaper, then shooting the base and clear in one day. I'll have to change my plans if I can't get away with driving it with exposed epoxy primer for a couple of weeks. |
6 posts
• Page 1 of 1