Painting WHITE

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2023 4:38 am
when it comes to white, would there be a difference between bc/cc and single stage? could there be issues with a SS that couldnt be cut and buffed out?



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2023 2:17 pm
The problem with base coat white is when it comes time to put the clear on, same story you just can't see what you're doing, for me anyway.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2023 2:26 pm
tomsteve wrote:when it comes to white, would there be a difference between bc/cc and single stage? could there be issues with a SS that couldn't be cut and buffed out?
I've cut/buffed SS a few times and I had no issues. Having said that, I have trouble shooting SS without runs. I rarely run with bc/cc and that is what I learned with--I have only done 3 or 4 SS jobs and to be honest, I like bc/cc much better. In fact, I don't even offer to shoot SS, it is always bc/cc for anything I do now. Maybe if the color could only be mixed in SS would I offer to do it. Just me, I am sure there are others that feel just the opposite--it's just my (lack of) experience showing) showing through maybe.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2023 3:33 pm
OldFatBald wrote:
Buckwheat wrote:...I am at a crossroads. I have had quite a few cars thru the years. I'm 61 and recently retired. I have restored this car for 5 years and finally almost ready for paint. I have a nice shop and all the equipment for painting the car except the spray gun.

thing is also, the car will have to be painted apart. fenders/doors off due to a complete sand down and prime. wonder if this will make painting white a bit easier?

my budget for a base/clear spray gun is $600.

I know the paint etc is expensive. but if I were to have a shop do it, I dont want to pay all that labor for the car apart and assembly. and I doubt a shop will want a car brought up in parts, painted, and me retrieve it in parts.

I do plan on this being my last and only effort. I feel I have done a very nice job on the restoration and I have to much in the car to settle for a mediocre paint job. I dont want show, but a very nice driver. same as a original looking job.

even with the price of a quality gun, I would be money ahead on cost but what about my paint quality. i'm at a crossroads. so what would you do?

One and done? Pay someone else if you want it perfect. Have you painted before? Is it really "ready for paint" I only do little projects but my last hood that I did, I thought it was "ready for paint" until I sprayed sealer on it. Back outside it went for more filler and sanding, lots and lots of sanding.

"I don't want show, but a very nice driver. same as a original looking job."

I call BS on that, if you have spent that much time on one car, you are going to want it perfect. In my weekender hack hobbyist opinion, a project car's paint is either "Perfect" or it has some eff ups.

If you don't mind sanding stuff over and its not some crazy pearl white go for it, BTW, cheap paint is not going to be your friend, otherwise even in Kansas you should be able to find someone that could shoot it for you.


not sure why but "even in kansas" had me :rotfl:
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2023 4:29 pm
Rebel Racing wrote:I have trouble shooting SS without runs

OldFatBald wrote:cheap paint is not going to be your friend


Agree. Cheap 2K Direct Gloss is lower in solids than its more expensive cousins and it is this, when combined with overly thick coats trying to get coverage, that leads to runs. A good quality 2K DG can go on smoother and flatter than many clears.

As for the "snow blindness", yes it's a thing, but you just need to change the way you look at the paint as you're laying it down. Look from a slightly different angle and watch the "bow wave" at the edge of the new layer you're spraying. It does take a bit of practice.

tomsteve wrote:when it comes to white, would there be a difference between bc/cc and single stage? could there be issues with a SS that couldnt be cut and buffed out?


The biggest one is what I said above about quality and solids content. 2K DG can be applied a lot thinner than clear and still get coverage but when wet sanded and buffed that lack of thickness causes grief for those with a bit less experience as they tend to get rub throughs. Hence the common advice to use BC/CC because it it more "forgiving".
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2023 5:08 pm
NFT5 wrote:
Rebel Racing wrote:I have trouble shooting SS without runs

OldFatBald wrote:cheap paint is not going to be your friend


Agree. Cheap 2K Direct Gloss is lower in solids than its more expensive cousins and it is this, when combined with overly thick coats trying to get coverage, that leads to runs. A good quality 2K DG can go on smoother and flatter than many clears.
In view of this, would it be safe to say that if forced to use the cheaper SS, instead of trying to get coverage with say 2 med wet coats, spray 3 or 4 lighter coats for coverage. I've only done 3 SS jobs and struggled with runs as my supplier just told me to treat it like clear and, obviously I laid it on too thick by times. I know I can make it work but, for me, given the choice I like to do bc/cc and now I know why (for me) it is easier since it is more forgiving.



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2023 7:03 pm
"I don't want show, but a very nice driver. same as a original looking job."

I call BS on that, if you have spent that much time on one car, you are going to want it perfect. In my weekender hack hobbyist opinion, a project car's paint is either "Perfect" or it has some eff ups.

fatbald dude, no kidding I dont like the over restored paint look. truly prefer as from factory look, which is very im-perfect. so you stand corrected by your comment. :allgood:

painter dave dude, you must simply be spanking because my kc chiefs have won the division 7 straight years and beat the broncos 15 straight times now. embarrasing. and the has been russel wilson "lets riiiiiiidddddddeeeee" u have to endure. :rotfl:

back to topic, I prefer the factory look. hopefully I will be able to achieve it, theres the factor of knowing how much I want to do things right and a shop doesnt. thanks all for the input, especially me not realizing white is the hardest to spray.
Eric

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2023 8:28 pm
Rebel Racing wrote:would it be safe to say that if forced to use the cheaper SS, instead of trying to get coverage with say 2 med wet coats, spray 3 or 4 lighter coats for coverage.


Yes, definitely. Each coat needs to be "just wet", but not "medium" or "full" wet. Rotate 45 to 90 degrees each time so you don't get banding and end up with an even coverage.

Buckwheat wrote:I prefer the factory look. hopefully I will be able to achieve it,


Take your time and do a practice panel a couple of times to dial in your technique.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2023 8:46 pm
NFT5 wrote:
Rebel Racing wrote:would it be safe to say that if forced to use the cheaper SS, instead of trying to get coverage with say 2 med wet coats, spray 3 or 4 lighter coats for coverage.


Yes, definitely. Each coat needs to be "just wet", but not "medium" or "full" wet. Rotate 45 to 90 degrees each time so you don't get banding and end up with an even coverage.
Never thought of doing a 45' angle........can't thank you enough for sharing your knowledge in this media. I really like gaining skills through the experience of others--I know I'll never live long enough to figure it all on my own, LOL.



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2023 3:36 am
I enjoy seeing you youngsters trying new things. I dragged home some large pieces of cardboard, bought some Rustoleum, watched all the videos and started practicing on cardboard. At first the paint soaks in quickly. Couple coats and then just painting paint. I practiced and practiced, painted buckets and anything else that was handy. Neighbor was encouraging me as he has something he wants sprayed.

I quickly discovered I do not like working with the chemicals or the smells and I make messes so paid to have it sprayed, money well spent. Most people can't be good at everything! I would guess if you ask around you could get someone to come to your shop to spray it. in pieces.
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