First I am not a pro, but have painted maybe 10-12 cars/trucks over the years all with different single-stage paints. This is my first BC/CC. I painted the inside of my blazer first and it was much easier than I expected and very happy with the results.

The outside went on like a dream everywhere but the hood and the top couple inches of the front fenders. The spots were more craters than fisheyes. Like the clear started to fish eye but then just laid way back away from the spot.

My fisheye experience is the craters are small and sort of distinct in shape. These were all over the hood and the best description I can give is if you took a picture of some normal orange peel and then expanded the picture quite a bit. It was pretty bad.

Prep: I stripped the hood to metal with 80G. I sprayed the Summit brand 2K epoxy. I did some minor work on a few dings. I did a coat of slick sand. I pulled that down with 220G. I did a coat of Summit brand 2k primer and worked that down with 320G. Another coat and used 400G. None of the primer work had issues.

I sprayed a Summit brand sealer and then top coated with Nason BC. Both went on without issue. I used Speedokote SMR-42 clear. The rest of the truck had no issues and laid down really flat and I was happy with how it turned out.

If it had been the air line or the combination of different products it should have repeated itself on the rest of the truck. It didn't on the inside painting or the outside, just the hood.

I sanded it down with 600g to see if I could get it flat and then buff. I cut thru in some places. I dropped back to 400 and flattened the hood and the tops of the fenders.

My question is now if I go back and wet sand what I have (used a DA to flatten the panel) then can I spray color over the panel and then clear? or do I need to spray something on top of the panel and then wet sand it down to fill some of the 400G scratching?

Two things happened on the clear. In my makeshift garage booth the heat went off and I had to restart the propane heat. The second coat of clear could have been right around 70 degrees and secondly the regulator on the gun started to act up and I was constantly adjusting pressure. I first thought cleanliness but I feel like the hood got the same treatment as the rest of the truck. I am leaning toward the heat, the temp and the air pressure as the culprit (coupled with my inexperience)

Sorry for the length.

Thoughts.

72K5

Can you post a picture?

Pictures please, Hard to help without seeing the problem.

The only picture I have looks like the color fish eyed and the sealer. Some of them are larger but it is not in the color, just the clear. My phone does not do the best pics.

Doright wrote:Pictures please, Hard to help without seeing the problem.

That looks more like contamination than fisheyes.

From what I can see, it should sand out relatively easy IF you have enough clear on there.

I cut thru to the color trying to get some of the craters out.

My question is that can I wet sand what I have down and re-shoot the color? and then go from there with the clear.

72K5

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:That looks more like contamination than fisheyes.

From what I can see, it should sand out relatively easy IF you have enough clear on there.

Yes.

1972K519503100 wrote:I cut thru to the color trying to get some of the craters out.

My question is that can I wet sand what I have down and re-shoot the color? and then go from there with the clear.

72K5

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:That looks more like contamination than fisheyes.

From what I can see, it should sand out relatively easy IF you have enough clear on there.

Yes, but... you are likely to have some edge mapping on feather edges. be prepared to cut and reclear, or wet sand any edge mapping VERY lightly in basecoat.

Also a few tips for garage painting.
when you blow the car off leave the garage for a while, 30 minutes or so. let all that stuff floating in the air settle down before cleaning and tacking.

Thanks for the tips.

I will try to get some better pics from my son's phone.

72K5