Picked one up for the small curves and such sanding high build.Wrapped with 180 it left some deep scratches? Too much pressure?

myke wrote:Picked one up for the small curves and such sanding high build.Wrapped with 180 it left some deep scratches? Too much pressure?

did you try to paint over the 180 ?

first you need to know how to use them, never straight back and forth. i have dozens of all shapes and sizes. a tightly rolled up magazine then taped to keep it rolled work real good.
Jay D.

PainterDave wrote:

myke wrote:Picked one up for the small curves and such sanding high build.Wrapped with 180 it left some deep scratches? Too much pressure?

did you try to paint over the 180 ?

No just got it. Did a quick test with it at a 45 to an inside curve and noticed the scratches. I don’t think I pushed hard but perhaps I need to not apply pressure at all?

Switched paper to 240 and seams better. Perhaps granular stuff was caught up with the 180?
Kinda a hard spot to sand for a rookie. The round cylinder sanding block helps but perhaps it’s too long?
Any help on this area? I’m lightly going at a 45 both ways over the ups and downs.
Some pics.

Moving along I guess it’s not too bad. What say you?
Ill leave that inside corner,not sure what to do there.

All right another question. This high spot has been bothering me for a couple of rounds now.circled in pencil is this something I can get rid of with hammer and dollie? I can get behind just barely.

badsix wrote:first you need to know how to use them, never straight back and forth. i have dozens of all shapes and sizes. a tightly rolled up magazine then taped to keep it rolled work real good.
Jay D.

As with all sanding blocks, you should be traveling at a 45 degree angle.

When doing a concave surface with a round block it is the same except you need to add a bit of wrist action, to help "roll it" through the curve.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:

badsix wrote:first you need to know how to use them, never straight back and forth. i have dozens of all shapes and sizes. a tightly rolled up magazine then taped to keep it rolled work real good.
Jay D.

As with all sanding blocks, you should be traveling at a 45 degree angle.

When doing a concave surface with a round block it is the same except you need to add a bit of wrist action, to help "roll it" through the curve.

Ah yes,twist the pad so as not to be sanding on one skinny spot on the paper.That would explain the sanding scratches.

like i said before i like a rolled up magazine, you can flex it some as your sanding by pinching it together making it more rounded or flatten it to make it less rounded. most of the time you have to improvise with your blocks, making your own. on that inside crevasse i would try a med soft hand sanding pad pull the paper up tight to one edge and sand from the top down to the crevasse then sand from the bottom to the crevasse. do tis lightly and carefully just until the guide coat is gone. then use a scratch pad to smooth the very bottom of the crevasse. use the scratch pad just like the paper then use the scratch pad in your flat hand and rub the complete area this will remove any slight ripples you might have caused with the paper. as one of the members JC says "its not custom painting its custom sanding" you can ruin a paint job very quickly by improper sanding.
Jay D