I am ready to get the lucern blue metalic paint just for the shaker scoop on my project trans am. (car will be white)

as a rookie I'm looking for tips on spraying the metalic even though it just for the scoop.
worried about the uneven tiger stripe effect with mettalic and how to spray it evenly.

thanks

if base coat, apply with light to med coats NOT heavy wet coats. on your last coat hold the gun back and apply a mist coat over the part, you may not need this last procedure. observe proper flash times DON'T get in a hurry. we (my boy and i) just did my car in a bright fine metalic silver and to be sure it looked ok we did the mist coat. it turned out perfect i have had several pro painters look at it and they were all amazed how nice it looked.
Jay D.

I’ve been reading about the “drop coat”. How does it not go on dry holding farther back?

you shoot it on just a few minutes ( 1-2) after the last full med coat. but yes that is a problem if you wait too long with the drop coat. good quality base materials play into this greatly, the base is formulated to lay out smooth an example would be when blending a panel. with a drop coat your going to hold the gun back apr. 18" ( JUST A GUESS) i don't know your actual situation. when we did my car i shot the last coat on the front hood and over the top of the front fender. then jumped over and did the other side of the hood and down that fender and around the front. then did a drop coat on the first part of the hood i did and followed what i had done.
Jay D.

Beautiful....just beautiful.... bathtub Porsches really show off silvers when done right....

DarrelK wrote:Beautiful....just beautiful.... bathtub Porsches really show off silvers when done right....

THANKS very much! its been a 51 year project. i still have the bumpers to finish and a few other minor details.
Jay D.

wow, that silver really looks excellent. cool car to.

everytime you experienced guys post up it seems a perfect paint job and I sigh and would love to achieve such a thing.

I sprayed my final coat of ppg deltron epoxy primer today. my car is officially ready for paint. can do the blue scoop but will have to wait on warm weather before doing the car.

I figure I want 7 days of 75 degrees, low humidty and no wind. crossing my fingers I get that in april but its a 50/50 chance.

wanted to add: I bought this car in 2015 and have worked long and hard on it all this time so today having it actually ready for paint is a huge huge satisfying milestone for me.

Watching for temp.s is a good thing,and yeah, whipping winds are never good but don't get hung up on humidity at all. A lot of us here have shot cars during rain storms even. Urethanes are not like the old days of lacquers. In fact mositure in the air usually means there is less "stuff" floating around in the air.

DarrelK wrote:Watching for temp.s is a good thing,and yeah, whipping winds are never good but don't get hung up on humidity at all. A lot of us here have shot cars during rain storms even. Urethanes are not like the old days of lacquers. In fact mositure in the air usually means there is less "stuff" floating around in the air.

thanks for that.

can't believe how much i'm learning from this site in short order. appreciate the heck out of it. iv'e read a lot, restoration books, paint books, but still get great info here.

I truely figured humidity was bad news and would cause the infamous "blushing".

never thought about the new urethanes are resistant to that. shows my age and familiarity with laquer. laquer always blushed in humidty.

Yeah, I grew up in your time period as well.... It was all about acrylic lacquers and enamels. Urethane is just a completely different animal. There are even MCUs in industrial coatings. That stands for Moisture Curred Urethanes. Moisture in the air kicks off their catalyzation and curing process...