I have learned a ton from this forum and others, and as an amateur, I painted my Driver Mustang with single stage urethane, and ended up with some fisheyes…so how best to deal with them??
Painted in October…time to sand and buff. Some of the fisheyes are deep, I don’t think sanding the paint that thin is a good idea, can I fill the fisheyes before sanding?
Was thinking take a fine dremmel sanding stone and manually(not using actual dremmel) rough up inside o fisheye and put a drop of paint on it…probably not thinned out at all…and then block sand that Down?
Will that work? What’s a better technique?
Dealing with fisheyes at cut and buff time….
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How many coats of clear are on there?
Personally, I would go over the entire panel (car?) with a Red Scotchbrite pad to dull the surface, then clean and shoot 2-3 more coats of clear (again depending on how many coats you already have on there). When cured you can cut it flat, refine the scratches by wet sanding and buff. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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i see that you said S/S. what i would try is just what your talking about, BUT put a drop in the crater then squeegee the drop off. if you leave the drop un squeegeed its going to take for ever to dry good. you can do it a second time if you feel its needed for build. after you squeegee and it shrinks some it may still be a little low you should be able to sand down to it and be ok. be sure and catalyze it and let it dry several days. if you get on it to soon with the buffer the buffing wheel will cut the fresh paint right out of the hole, be very gentle with the buffer. IF this doesn't work i have another suggestion. i would go so far as to go down to 3000 grit in these areas so you don't have to spend a lot of time over that spot with the buffer.
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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Oops, missed that part. Sorry. Guess I was in too much of a hurry. That's my excuse and I am sticking to it. 1968 Coronet R/T
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DON'T FEEL BAD THATS USUALY WHAT I DO Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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Thanks guys for the info and humor….will post pics of car when buffed out….here is current status…
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NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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I did alot of mobile painting and we had to learn to deal with our environment, snow, rain, ashes falling from the sky, and there were lots of fisheyes. The best way I dealt with it was wet sand with 1500, 2000, then trizac 3000, most of the time it worked. I work in shop now and me and the other painter does it differently. He paints for 20 years but is very bad at polishing, where my technique from mobile works the best for me. Try it out! |
Did some testing…had about 20 fisheyes total….used the dremmel tip to rough them up, mixed up my color and used a toothpick to drop in the paint. Touch up sticks were too big….let dry 3 days….sanded with small maple block, and 3m 1500 wetsand….I test sanded 3 fisheyes….the worst fisheye was on hood, and primer was exposed, the rest were paint filled craters……first pic has lemon sized test sanded areas…..
The 1500 took the repair down, and took orange peel off easily….so I think that’s what I will use as my initial cut, the 1500 paper….and go finer from there… I think this will be success, will cut at end of March….. |
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You do know that you can do a second coat to get the build up to be flat with the surrounding finish. relying on sanding it down to much to make it flat is risky. also sanding just that area is going to make it look like it has a dent there. the longer you can let it dry the better. LOOKING at it agian, that one with the primer showing might take 3 coats. fill it and squeegee it off let it dry a couple days, then do it agian. try and keep the film thickness down to a minimum each time so it will harden good.
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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