NFT5 wrote:Yes, use with your existing thinner and at the ratios they recommend.
The lacquer thinner I have says nothing about dilution ratios. The Tamiya Acrylic Retarder says, “It can be used up to a 1:10 ratio”. Earlier you had said, “Mix [slow 2K reducer] with what you have at 2 parts acrylic thinner to 1 part slow 2K”. Indeed, 2K reducer is different than the Tamiya Retarder, but would the same dilution ratio work?
Also, apologies for the confusion, but would it then be, for example, 10 ml acrylic thinner, 5 ml acrylic retarder, and 15 ml acrylic enamel?
NFT5 wrote:Now that you have this extra damage why don't you contact one of the mobile paint repair guys? They're usually much cheaper than a bricks and mortar shop and they are generally pretty good at just repairing the damaged area, in the case of a bar, rather than the whole thing. Can't hurt to give one or two a call and get a quote.
I could not find any local mobile paint repair individuals, but I obtained quotes from a few “less established” local body shops and an individual who worked out of a home garage. The least expensive quote for both the front and rear bumper was $1300 CAD, a price I cannot justify.
Next month I will be doing a paint correction, and my aim in repairing these damages is to minimize their overall impact on the vehicle as a whole.
With that said, I think I have a good understanding of how to touch up the rear bumper, but how do I approach the front bumper? Here is a photograph where it can be seen in greater context (I think):
In my view, the ‘jagged texture’ found within the gouge is what makes the damage stick out most. In the above photograph, the scratch was filled using generic black touch-up paint on hand, but here it is without:
My thinking is to use a sanding pen e.g. PrepPen within the scratch not to get to bare metal but to smoothen the ‘inside’ of the gouge, then apply several layers of touch-up paint. Ideally I would like any work I do to be reversible as to allow me to have it done professionally should the need arise (and my wallet allow!)
Thoughts on this proposed approach or suggestions? Would the same method you suggested for the rear bumper apply i.e. brush at low angle, let the surface tension of the paint do the work?
Also, yesterday I was able to find a source for PPG Waterborne Envirobase High Performance basecoat. Would this product be preferable to the acrylic enamel or should I stick with the acrylic enamel?
Thanks for all your help!