Howdy. Just painted my car I believe about two months ago now. Managed to screw up a spot about the size of a nail head a week ago. I had plenty of left over material so I just now sanded the entire panel with 800, dusted color over the defect spot blending out in about a 1 foot circle then sprayed three coats of clear over the entire panel.

New paint spot is visibly a tad lighter looking if you look down the side of the panel but disappears of you look straight at it. This is Chromabase silver with universal clear.
Is it just a matter of drying out some? Maybe after it's wet sanded the spot will match better?
Even though the paint came straight out the can I used to spray the car does it still need to be blended over the whole panel?

Thanks.

i've shot gallons of Chromebase and REALLY like it, other than cost. i'm thinking its an application error. blending out 12" might not have been enough. this is a tough color to spot in and applying either to wet or to dry is going to cause your problem. dusting over you damaged area might have been to light, typically with this type of color to light of a coat results in a light colored tint. heavier coats result in slightly darker tint. it has to do with how the metalic's lay down or stand up, dry and they stand up and a lighter tint.
Jay D.

Most likely you used a different gun setting trying to keep your spot small effecting the finial color. you should be spraying with the same setting as you sprayed the car with, if you do not remember than this is a good time to start making notes

Yea I definitely picked the wrong color for my skill level. I did spray with a narrower fan and lighter on the needle too.

I'm going to sand it down and try again

After sanding the entire panel, it is difficult to see the true color of the surrounding paint.

When I am attempting a blend like this I do the following:

I mix up a small amount of reduced clear to use as an "inter-coat." This is done by using 3 parts clear, 1 parts hardener, 9 parts reducer. You can buy inter-coat clear which is nothing more than a clear basecoat to use if you prefer.

Place some masking tape for boundaries to be sure you don't get carried away.

Spray the blend area with the reduced clear using light coats as you would base coat. You want to go just past the problem area with the first coat and slightly farther with each pass. Do not go all the way to your masking tape.
At the end of each pass use your wrist to sweep the gun away from the surface. Imagine you are spraying an inside 90 degree corner and you have to turn your wrist to keep from loading the paint into the corner. (This is practice for base coat application.) You will start and stop your passes using your wrist in this manner.
Remember your base coat will be sprayed on this inter-coat so give yourself some room to work. Let this flash.
At this point you should be able to see the color you are trying to blend with very easily.

Mix your base exactly as you did when you first painted the car and set your gun up the same as well.

No need to sand just begin spraying your base coat very light coats. Make a couple of short passes over just your problem area for good coverage. Make sure to let each coat flash off. By now you will see that things are shaping up and the repair is pretty much invisible.
Make a couple of more passes using the "wrist technique" with each pass going a little farther than the last but not reaching the tape line. Be sure to spray light coats of base until the blend is just the way you want it.

Remove the masking tape and prepare to spray your clear coats over the entire panel.

I am not a professional but this method as worked very well for me.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:After sanding the entire panel, it is difficult to see the true color of the surrounding paint.

When I am attempting a blend like this I do the following:

I mix up a small amount of reduced clear to use as an "inter-coat." This is done by using 3 parts clear, 1 parts hardener, 9 parts reducer. You can buy inter-coat clear which is nothing more than a clear basecoat to use if you prefer.

Place some masking tape for boundaries to be sure you don't get carried away.

Spray the blend area with the reduced clear using light coats as you would base coat. You want to go just past the problem area with the first coat and slightly farther with each pass. Do not go all the way to your masking tape.
At the end of each pass use your wrist to sweep the gun away from the surface. Imagine you are spraying an inside 90 degree corner and you have to turn your wrist to keep from loading the paint into the corner. (This is practice for base coat application.) You will start and stop your passes using your wrist in this manner.
Remember your base coat will be sprayed on this inter-coat so give yourself some room to work. Let this flash.
At this point you should be able to see the color you are trying to blend with very easily.

Mix your base exactly as you did when you first painted the car and set your gun up the same as well.

No need to sand just begin spraying your base coat very light coats. Make a couple of short passes over just your problem area for good coverage. Make sure to let each coat flash off. By now you will see that things are shaping up and the repair is pretty much invisible.
Make a couple of more passes using the "wrist technique" with each pass going a little farther than the last but not reaching the tape line. Be sure to spray light coats of base until the blend is just the way you want it.

Remove the masking tape and prepare to spray your clear coats over the entire panel.

I am not a professional but this method as worked very well for me.

I don't think i would use any tape on the panel that i'm blending. maybe I'm misunderstanding, but any amount of over spray from the blending procedure that might get near the tape is gona leave a line. I'VE BEEN HERE BEFORE..
Jay D.

I use the tape mainly just as a boundary lines, to keep me focused on the area of the blend.
It is always well away from the problem area so there is not chance of an edge being formed.

I agree it is probably unnecessary for an experienced painter.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:I use the tape mainly just as a boundary lines, to keep me focused on the area of the blend.
It is always well away from the problem area so there is not chance of an edge being formed.

I agree it is probably unnecessary for an experienced painter.

I knew you had it under control!
Jay D.

And make sure you mix your base well, silvers settle out very quickly
on the bottom of the can and in the gun.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:After sanding the entire panel, it is difficult to see the true color of the surrounding paint.

When I am attempting a blend like this I do the following:

I mix up a small amount of reduced clear to use as an "inter-coat." This is done by using 3 parts clear, 1 parts hardener, 9 parts reducer. You can buy inter-coat clear which is nothing more than a clear basecoat to use if you prefer.

Place some masking tape for boundaries to be sure you don't get carried away.

Spray the blend area with the reduced clear using light coats as you would base coat. You want to go just past the problem area with the first coat and slightly farther with each pass. Do not go all the way to your masking tape.
At the end of each pass use your wrist to sweep the gun away from the surface. Imagine you are spraying an inside 90 degree corner and you have to turn your wrist to keep from loading the paint into the corner. (This is practice for base coat application.) You will start and stop your passes using your wrist in this manner.
Remember your base coat will be sprayed on this inter-coat so give yourself some room to work. Let this flash.
At this point you should be able to see the color you are trying to blend with very easily.

Mix your base exactly as you did when you first painted the car and set your gun up the same as well.

No need to sand just begin spraying your base coat very light coats. Make a couple of short passes over just your problem area for good coverage. Make sure to let each coat flash off. By now you will see that things are shaping up and the repair is pretty much invisible.
Make a couple of more passes using the "wrist technique" with each pass going a little farther than the last but not reaching the tape line. Be sure to spray light coats of base until the blend is just the way you want it.

Remove the masking tape and prepare to spray your clear coats over the entire panel.

I am not a professional but this method as worked very well for me.

Ive been reading about this,is this what some call a wet bed,binder or clear base?You spray the blend area with this so the paint lands in a wet area I guess.