I also have some places on the hood where the OEM clear is delaminated and nearby it is coming up, can see white areas forming. The OEM patriot blue has not faded as when hood is wet, color looks even and perfect. How do I remove the loose clear coat without sanding as sanding is going to touch the color coat? It is only about 5% of the hood affected. And does clear coat only around the bad areas prevent the OEM clear coat from continuing to peel? Do you scrape off the clear, is there a clear coat stripper? Do you reclear then polish the edges flatter? I see videos of people sanding the clear and respraying the clear and it looks good. But they must also be touching the base coat with sandpaper too.

sdowney717 wrote:How do I remove the loose clear coat without sanding as sanding is going to touch the color coat?

You can't. You'll need to sand that whole bonnet back to metal and respray. Although it may look like the clear is still ok on most of it, it's not and it will delaminate just like it has in the bad spots already. Unfortunately, this answers your other questions too.

sdowney717 wrote:I see videos of people sanding the clear and respraying the clear and it looks good.

YouTube is the land of dreams and hack fixes that simply don't work.

Sorry if this isn't the answer you were looking for but it's just how it is. You're either up for a lot more work than you were expecting, or a lot more expense, or both.

Good for you trying to repair your car,I think we all have tried the rattle can fix.Heck there was no internet when I did my first few.Trying to sand back tape lines to blend in just doesn't work.
One thing I learned was clear cant be blended, so even though you just want to repair a small corner of say a fender you have to wet sand and mask off the whole panel back to the seams.The primer and paint gets blended in the repair area without tape lines.Then clear the whole thing.
Its not terribly hard or expensive to do but you have to follow certain steps or it all fails and will look like crap as I have learned.
Good luck,

I have learned a lot more about painting, even though I am an older guy and have done a lot of different painting including cars over the years.

This area under the mirror had a big scratch and a small long dent, it looks good now, not perfect, but good.
I can't post pics direct, so I am linking to my google photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/abQWjD4AnT1YJyje7

Front fenders both sides had road rash, looks much better. The PO drove this truck on the highway mostly out west, and sandblasted parts of it, so I added mud flaps and had to repaint behind the wheels. Lots of paint damage on the front end, little tiny bits missing where rocks and sand hit the paint. It is looking a whole lot better now.

Sanded the clear on the fender, filled the little dings with primer, new Patriot Blue Paint and 1K clear coat. It polishes beautifully with my polisher and a yellow foam pad.
There are little tiny droplets of water on the paint, so it is just wet as I rinsed the hood.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wMpmESgKmSZjp6oA6

The hood had major clear coat damage and peeling. I sanded it with 240 by hand and a block. Then used the dark Rust-oleum primer, then 2 cans Patriot Blue. I went over the entire hood up close and sanded out about 15 dings from road rash. Had to spray primer and fill quite a few times to get it perfectly flat, shown by testing with a hose. For a few other dings, I just opened up down to the steel and then filled using a stick with primer on it. That was a lot less effort. The OEM used a black primer and a terribly thin coat of blue. Sanding the peeled clear coat took it down to metal fast. I sanded the entire hood and got rid of all bubbling clear coat. Laid on the primer where it needed it good and thick, sanded it all perfect to flat. The clear was failing in streaks running down the hood. All the failed clear was completely sanded away.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/u2vCgmCshFyUuJNJ7

After painting the Patriot Blue, I used a scuff pad and a hose and that worked extremely well to knock a little roughness off the blue paint. When hood is wet it looks beautiful.

I also have been putting Turtle Wax Ceramic on the blue, it does nothing for the shine I can see, but it makes the surface feel slick, and supposed to help prevent UV damage to the clear. And supposed to last up to a year. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYPS3PS?ps ... ct_details

Reviews on this product by project farm on youtube showed it lasted longer on the paint than this other one here. It survived being washed. This Meguires product did not survive washing.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G190526 ... r=8-6&th=1

myke wrote:Good for you trying to repair your car,I think we all have tried the rattle can fix.Heck there was no internet when I did my first few.Trying to sand back tape lines to blend in just doesn't work.
One thing I learned was clear cant be blended, so even though you just want to repair a small corner of say a fender you have to wet sand and mask off the whole panel back to the seams.The primer and paint gets blended in the repair area without tape lines.Then clear the whole thing.
Its not terribly hard or expensive to do but you have to follow certain steps or it all fails and will look like crap as I have learned.
Good luck,

Going to clear the entire hood, but all my other spots I just cleared what I painted plus a little more. It all polished out and looks ok.

sdowney717 wrote:

myke wrote:Good for you trying to repair your car,I think we all have tried the rattle can fix.Heck there was no internet when I did my first few.Trying to sand back tape lines to blend in just doesn't work.
One thing I learned was clear cant be blended, so even though you just want to repair a small corner of say a fender you have to wet sand and mask off the whole panel back to the seams.The primer and paint gets blended in the repair area without tape lines.Then clear the whole thing.
Its not terribly hard or expensive to do but you have to follow certain steps or it all fails and will look like crap as I have learned.
Good luck,

Going to clear the entire hood, but all my other spots I just cleared what I painted plus a little more. It all polished out and looks ok.

looks good,I usually wait a week before wet sanding and polish of the clear.

myke wrote:

sdowney717 wrote:

myke wrote:Good for you trying to repair your car,I think we all have tried the rattle can fix.Heck there was no internet when I did my first few.Trying to sand back tape lines to blend in just doesn't work.
One thing I learned was clear cant be blended, so even though you just want to repair a small corner of say a fender you have to wet sand and mask off the whole panel back to the seams.The primer and paint gets blended in the repair area without tape lines.Then clear the whole thing.
Its not terribly hard or expensive to do but you have to follow certain steps or it all fails and will look like crap as I have learned.
Good luck,

Going to clear the entire hood, but all my other spots I just cleared what I painted plus a little more. It all polished out and looks ok.

looks good,I usually wait a week before wet sanding and polish of the clear.

I have been able to do it 24 hours later and it turns out ok.
I really like the dark Rust oleum automotive primer, it is cheap at H Depot. And it sprays out decently thick, I'm able to wet sand it same day a few hours later. I chose the dark primer as the patriot blue is a dark color.

Other thing is the Duplicolor paints are lacquer, so was thinking the clear is also lacquer and I have noticed lacquer paints dissolve with lacquer, so perhaps the color to clear bond is pretty good using that paint. It is very convenient paint to use. I do notice it must be polished to make a gorgeous shine. Don't expect to lay down a gorgeous clear right from the can with that paint. But honestly you're likely to polish whatever clear you spray. Other advantage it dries very fast. I am working outside so have to keep brushing little bits of tree etc... off the surface but dries so fast most debris does not stick in the paint.

it is also likely harder to lay down clear evenly as the fan spray is less volume, so have to pay more attention to what you are doing. I also was spraying pretty close and moving fast over the surface.

Got the final clear on early this 8am
Will not do any more on the hood till at least monday or maybe tuesday.
It look real good and fantastic when wet.
So at least 3 coats clear is on this.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ugkbty346RmNGYNo7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YjF6bfeNiqMKJ2Dq9

I sprayed good even overlapping coats up close with no runs. Sprayed about 4 inches away. This duplicolor forms a bunch of dust farther away from where you are spraying, I notice this dust melts back into wet clear, so must be clear drying in the air.

Entire hood got multiple coats of blue paint and clear

The yellow is bulletin board paper cut from a roll, and then couple old wet towels on the fenders.

Image test

This is the first car hood I painted in modern times.
It does have slight orange peel. I still think it looks good regardless.

I am going to go over it with the other Chemical Guys GAP11216 polish this weekend.
Maybe it will improve it some more, versus sanding smoother and polish again
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wAsqR5CrDA3YesHb8