NFT5 wrote:BBC333 wrote: Is there a line dryer that you can recommend to just stick in-line that will suffice?
There are reasonable quality filters and dessicant dryers available, although not necessarily cheap. You'll need 10-15m of hose before the filter/dryer to get most of the moisture to condense and then another 10m of nice, clean hose between that and your gun. Brands vary but a few members here can recommend some that will be available over there.BBC333 wrote:I see it looks like the flow control is a new option on the Iwata?? Do you recommend with or without. Or is that not a new concept for this gun?
The gun originally came with the air control and they deleted it as a lower cost option. But now the difference is only about $6, IIRC, so might as well get it.BBC333 wrote:Is the high build primer just not going to go thru a 1.3?
Probably not. A 1.8mm tip is much better. But you could cheap out on a primer gun, given that you'd be blocking it all back anyway. Unfortunately the AZ3 isn't sold with multiple setups and they're nearly as expensive as a whole gun to buy. The FLG5 is a little better in this regard, but not a lot - very occasionally there are multiple setup deals on offer, but of course, never when you want to buy.BBC333 wrote:IS THAT OK to put lacquer acrylic primer on a new e-coat and under the urethane base?
I've done it, and not had a problem, but it's not recommended. I know 2K primer is expensive and you can usually only get it in larger (4 litre) tins, but it's the better alternative.BBC333 wrote:Does all this look good to clean and mix with no dangerous reactions.?
What I said above but I'll leave it to the local guys to talk about local brand recommendations.BBC333 wrote:I am thinking 400 scotch pad for e-coat prep for primer, wait 30mins after last primer coat and maybe I can get away with 800 scotch pad for base prep after high build application if primer lays down good? Then up to 3 coats of base and then up to 3 coats clear with appropriate flash times observed.? No sanding between base coats or clear unless forced..
Even I wouldn't try to do base over primer, especially high build, using wet on wet method. You can do it over a single coat sealer, but high build needs to be blocked smooth and level.
Some use the red Scotch pads over e-coat, I use the grey, but scuffed very thoroughly. E-coat is very thin - I wouldn't use anything that was in the order of P400, unless I was doing a coat of epoxy for some reason. The fastest curing 2K primer I have takes at least an hour before being ready to sand. UV primers are much quicker at just a few seconds, but you have to buy the special UV light and use guns with UV blocking cups.
If your primer is the right shade then 2 coats of base should be more than enough. I rarely, maybe once or twice a year, put on 3 coats of clear. In my opinion, if I can't lay down clear that, apart from a little denibbing, is equivalent to OEM standard, then I shouldn't be charging for what I do. It's very expensive stuff to just sand and polish off.
Thanks for the insight and effort to help really..!!
It sounds to me like I need to swap my Primer out for "single coast sealer"... Or are you telling me I would be better off with a 2k out of a can to prep as ready to shoot base on E-coat substrate? Its not too late and I could even just shelve the high build for body work down to metals with bondo involved..?? I dont know you have me even wondering WHY she gave me the high build lacquer acrylic at all now...
I believe I am still misunderstanding primers. When you say "2K" you are referring to a 2part epoxy yes? So I am assuming you are talking about spraying from a "rustoleum type rig" with the bottom popper that I have seen on the tube./.?? Yet you would prefer that as a final primer coat as opposed to watering down a high build primer though i good nozzle gun? I was just assuming I would dilute well and go on thin with an application just thick enough cover smooth and uniform, and yet thin enough to barely cover to black e-coat. Moreso just an added BINDER SUBSTRATE between E-coat and Urethane as well as some added protection and color changing..? Be SURE I am just speculation from living on Earth as a mechanically incliner diy'r, so correct me please.. I am grateful for your time.
(What makes a good DIY guy? Someone who stumbles onto a need and not only goes after every information resource, but wastes all the money required to get the rigs and setups as close to field required as possible. Someone who did not understand the value of money and where it would have been better placed.. LOL)
Maybe that particular primer (the 301 I bought) is one of those ones that says full bodied but not really considered "high build". But it does feel thick in the can... On the primer my best guess is that she just assumed I would be trying to spray something that would lay down thick and move on with min prep. I think its a 1.25:1 which tells me it should not go on too bad.. On the blocking, surely its possible to go by hand feel with 4-600 grit on single projects like a fender or bumper? It just feels to me like the whole point of laying down a thick base is defeated by just blindly going back that aggressively?? Which I assume is why the "Block" method for trueness. I could see where this method should be employed if working with bondo etc trying to build back an actually physical shape. Again I think I am answering my own question and I just have the wrong priming product....
Its funny you mentioned hose lengths to maximize line drier efficiency. I was actually laying here this morning half awake devising in my mind how to build is BIG RICE BOX DRYER and how much line I would put in front of and after. And then what kinds of solids filter I would put after the box...
And yea I figured the any lines that come with a rental would be FUBAR unless they are renting oiless compressor units. And then still... I'm kinda thinking I will take my existing 20 ' Line and flush it with something and go from there.
QUESTION - Do those little squirrely lines work for paint air? I was talking to a neighbor when some roofers were doing my house recently telling him I could not believe that they could fire 90lb psi gun nailers thru those skinny lines they were using AND AT THOSE LENGTHS. My neighbor went on to advise me that he was some sort of old engineering dawg and "That I would be surprised how much air you can get thru a line" citing they would force thousands of PSI thru thin lines. I am sure not the same material. I quess the question would be have you ever hooked up a long squggly air hose and checked the pressure at the end to see if same??
FYI I got my replacement hood yesterday from carparts REPLACEMENTXL brand. Unless specs of off dimensionally, its a killer reproduction if not better. They used a high end shipper for around $150 I dont want to think about it. I also got my Fender that I had to purchase to replace the one I broke and it was shipped by Fed EX. OOops they did it again. My wife says, "Why are you videoing the opening of the package". And I say "because everyone is a Sorry Cnt today", as I reveal to her the dents and dings which I knew would be there after a quick glance of the box.. A new one is on the way at no charge already. I just hope that bumper from 10 days ago which I have not yet opened is intact.. I'll be videoing that one too..