Hey All, Cleared my hood last October, fouled it up. Sanded most of it down with p400 dry, and that’s where I left off. I had bad orange peel.

Hood is inside shop, covered in blue plastic sheeting. Heated all winter. No moisture.

Nason select clear. Nason base metallic. (Bare metal, Epoxy prime, 2k high build prime)

Can I carry on, sand and re clear, or will I have adhesion issues now? Start over?

Thanks

P400 scratching will be visible if you re-clear now. Need to get those P400 scratches out. If you sanded lightly then you may be able to go to P800, but if you laid in, then maybe need to go to P600 first, then P800 and then to P1200.

Some say you can re-clear over P800 but I've seen scratching with this, so always recommend going one step further. Much easier to rub it once more than to have to re-do the whole thing.

Don't forget that if you rub through the old clear then you will be doing it all again. Take it easy.

I’m a little confused? This is contrary to what I know and my experience.

400 sanding is only in the clear. I’ve re cleared over 400 and not had any issues in the past. Ie. no scratches showing in the clear. I’ve never sanded to 1200 and painted, I would think those are too fine for adhesion?

What am I missing?

Thanks

If you shoot more than one coat of clear over the 400 grit scratches and then cut and buff, you should be fine.

If you just plan to shoot one coat of clear over 400 grit, then you might see scratches as Chris said.

I see. Thank you.

What grit are you all sanding to typically for base and/or single stage. I’m curious now.

As for the original question - no adhesion issues with automotive paints after months? I.e. No chemical bonding, just mechincal bond is fine with the clear?


In all honesty, when I hear ‘sand clear to 1200’, the first thing I think is, why would you not just go a bit more, and polish?

I use 800, if you clear over that 400 you may or may not see the sanding profile.