I bought some build primer, Proform 2k Urethane, life happened, and it sat on a shelf for a year and a half. When I went to use it, it was all clumped at the bottom with a clear thin soup on top. I ended up buying more, but I decided to try to save the first stuff if I could. Bought a cheap mixing paddle and went to it with my battery drill. After a few minutes of careful mixing, things started to loosen up, so I was pretty happy about that until...I pulled out the paddle to discover that a portion of the plastic paddle was GONE. Like, disintegrated.

Question: do I use this stuff with the extra plastic "binder" in it? Am I just asking for trouble? I did spray out a test panel and scuffed it up. Doesn't seem any different than the new stuff in sprayout or sanding.

Thanks for the great forum and for any advice!

First year apprentice error that one.

Yeah, should be alright. Continue mixing, but with a solvent resistant paddle, until it's uniform in consistency. Repeat immediately before use.

strain with a paint strainer, two of them one on top of the other.
Jay D.

Thanks for the replies. Stoked that I don't have to throw this stuff away!

Got it done. The contaminated primer didn't seem to be an issue, but I learned a lot about speed, distance, air flow, gun setup. Only problems are a little orange peel where I wasn't paying attention to my distance, a few dust introductions, and what looks to be a little solvent pop. Only happened on the large panels and I think it's because I let the W&G remover dry on the surface (didnt learn that's a no no until later). All in all I'm pretty stoked about the results.


Tamco DTA Epoxy Primer 1:1

Iwata WS-400 Bellaria 1.3 tip
50% overlap
Fan out minus 1/4 turn
Air 29 psi at gun inlet
Fluid wide open
2 light wet coats


Pro Form 2k Build Primer 4:1

Iwata Airgunsa AZ3 1.8 tip
70% overlap
Fan wide open
Air at 30 psi at gun inlet
Fluid wide open
2-3 medium wet coats


Tamco Black Base 1:1 ("Murdered Out Black")

Iwata WS-400 Bellaria 1.3 tip
70% overlap
Fan out minus 1/4 turn
Air at 29 psi at gun inlet
Fluid wide open
2-3 medium wet coats


Tamco Euro Clear 2:1:10%

DevilBiss FLG5 1.4 tip
75% overlap
Fan wide open
Air at 32-35
Fluid full out
3 Wet coats total


RESPIRATOR GEAR

3M 6000 full face mask
3M 6001 organic vapor filter
3M 5P71 P95 pre-filter with 501 retainer

My '86 Fiero:

Got the two tone bumpers done, took 10 hours to scuff the epoxy, mask, base, remask, base, and clear all. Yes, I'm slow, but it came out pretty well except for some areas where I dropped some adhesion promoter on the front bumper with a leaking HF purple gun.



Here are my lessons learned in case anyone is reading and cares:

Have plenty of tape on hand
Whatever is not buried under primer WILL show up in the final finish
Overspray will go places you will not understand how-mask more than you think you need
Taking off the part will give better results than trying to mask it
Take the stupid trim pieces/seals off, especially the window seals
Run closer for smoother finish
Wipe off the W&G remover immediately and let it flash off for at least a half hour before painting
Never drip adhesion promoter on a RIM panel/never trust a harbor freight gun
Paper makes the best masking right next to the overspray
Be sure all gun parts are tight
You can get away with spraying less than perfectly, but do everything you can to prevent dry spray and runs. Mostly, just make a plan and stick to it