Fiber Reinforced Filler for Edges?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2024 12:11 pm
I did the metal as best I could. And I'm using USC Lightweight (15310). Still, there some filler at the edges. Should I use a fiber reinforced filler on these edges (doors, trunk, hood) ?

If so, considering how little I actually need, could I just mix in some fiberglass into the USC 15310?



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2024 12:27 pm
Got any pics?

Any way you could re establish the edge with metal? Tig filler rod?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2024 10:24 pm
Yuk. Filler on edges. Will chip if you even look at it sideways. And the fibre reinforced stuff will work so well that it will chip even bigger.

Put up some photos and you'll get some good suggestions.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2024 9:58 am
NFT5 wrote:Yuk. Filler on edges. Will chip if you even look at it sideways. And the fibre reinforced stuff will work so well that it will chip even bigger.

Put up some photos and you'll get some good suggestions.
:goodpost: sounds like a bad idea right off, pictures please!
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2024 9:58 pm
I don't have a TIG welder. And honestly, I just want to get this done ASAP and don't really want to go back and redo any metal. I'm putting in effort to make it a nice driver, but I'm not shooting for anything near perfection. This is will be my regular commuter unless it's raining or extremely hot as I have no AC.

I started rough body work last summer. I sprayed it with high-build epoxy to protect it over winter.

This is the passenger door. I bondo'd the door closed to the B-pillar and I had blocked over panel to panel.

Note: Having never done bodywork before, I am not very efficient. Anything that looks like a quick and easy fix to you, is not so quick and easy for my newb self.

In any case, here are some pics. (flame suit on)

IMG_8987.JPG

IMG_8988.JPG

IMG_8989.JPG

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2024 10:16 pm
It's the last photo that shows the danger you're getting in to here. Options are to:

1. Fill the low area from the end of your repair to to where the door skin wraps around the frame. Although not as bad as extending the edge of the door this does leave the outside of the edge very prone to chipping; or,

2. Feather back the raised surface of your repair over, say, 150-200mm. That would leave nearly all of the edge as bare metal and the feathering would not be visible. Susceptibility to chipping very low, just like out of the factory.

It looks like you have quite a bit of blocking to do on that door yet and probably some filling of pin and other small holes. The second option probably won't add any time at all to what you still have to do.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2024 11:53 pm
NFT5 wrote:It's the last photo that shows the danger you're getting in to here. Options are to:

1. Fill the low area from the end of your repair to to where the door skin wraps around the frame. Although not as bad as extending the edge of the door this does leave the outside of the edge very prone to chipping; or,

2. Feather back the raised surface of your repair over, say, 150-200mm. That would leave nearly all of the edge as bare metal and the feathering would not be visible. Susceptibility to chipping very low, just like out of the factory.

It looks like you have quite a bit of blocking to do on that door yet and probably some filling of pin and other small holes. The second option probably won't add any time at all to what you still have to do.


I definitely have a lot of blocking and finishing to do before final primer. Which is why I'm asking about how to address the edges. I'm glad you specified 150-200mm because I was thinking about feathering from the edge but was thinking only about going 3/4" (or ~20mm in metric speak).

Thank you for the response.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2024 1:19 am
67Drop wrote:I'm glad you specified 150-200mm because I was thinking about feathering from the edge but was thinking only about going 3/4" (or ~20mm in metric speak).


That's a bare minimum so you won't see the change in direction of the outside of the door. If that was my job I'd probably start with a 600mm very rigid block and take back the whole surface until I was hitting metal. Which is easy to say given that I have no idea of what was there and what's been done. Still, more bog is never the answer and it should only be where it is absolutely necessary to be.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2024 2:29 am
I had hit bare metal in a few spots before I sprayed the primer. But I'll try to tap down the high spots a little more on this next go of blocking.



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2024 8:31 am
Looks like too much material is already on the door skin already too me, Needs to be sanded down moor. look at rough texture just inside of door edge. all that needs to be feathered out.

Then the skin thickness looks too thick from filler on Crown of body line looking down door skin.

Just me but you have a lot more sanding to do even for a 10 footer.
Now is the time in your project and really take your time sanding! Sanding is every thing for a nice paint job. Painting is the easy part, slow down take your time. DO not get in rush to get it done. Its your money and materials get as much from them as you can.
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