Hi guys
Recently blasted my shell back to bare metal and went on with epoxy primer all over. Underside engine bay and exterior went on nicely, but inside I faced overspray issues. The coats were going on nice and wet and smooth but I found I got a dusty finish from overspray settling in the wet paint while still tacky, as wasn't the best airflow nor technique

Now the inside will be getting single stage direct gloss most likely and the finish doesn't have to be perfect since it's all covered by interior, but I still want to do a good job. I've tried knocking off the dusty finish on the epoxy with 400 grit soft pads and it works fine, you can see in the photos the smooth areas I sanded to test and the gritty finish surrounding.

I just want to confirm this is the correct thing to do before going and sanding the entire interior. The epoxy below is rock solid so I'm not taking off any thickness really, just the top dusty finish.
I tried scotchbrite which I hoped would work but unfortunately it didn't really.

And for any interest this is the progress so far on the shell

image uploader

That's fine to proceed.
FYI
I usually use red scuff pads by Mirka,
they work real fast and at 360 grit, the urethane
fills the scratches just fine.

2x the red pads. i don't know what color the engine compartment is going to be. but i would have scheduled my spraying, and epoxied the engine compartment then sprayed my color coat like the next day, NO sanding of the epoxy required if you stay in the recoat window. you could have done this in the passenger compartment also. it would require some masking but thats sure a lot better than sanding all those areas. this would also alleviated the overspray problem.
Jay D.

Thanks for the replies guys. I used a scuff ball and scotch hand pads and it took most of it off, but there is still a peely texture in the epoxy. I plan to lay down single stage urethane on the interior with some matting agent added as I want a semigloss interior as that's how it was from the factory. How much do I need to worry about slight rough texture in the epoxy, will the single stage self level and fill that in? It's just very hard to sand the peely texture out of the epoxy in all the hard corners of the interior. The scotch works great for getting rid of 90% of it but there is 10% remaining that only sandpaper seems to remove.

isn't 95% or more of the interior is going to be covered? why waste brain cells and time in this area. be concerned about the engine compartment and places that are going to be visible. you're doing a REAL NICE job, just a little intense in some areas.
Jay D.

badsix wrote:isn't 95% or more of the interior is going to be covered? why waste brain cells and time in this area. be concerned about the engine compartment and places that are going to be visible. you're doing a REAL NICE job, just a little intense in some areas.
Jay D.

Sure, but I'd like a decent finish on the inside nonetheless. It will all be covered but I will know its there

Can anyone just confirm this for me
"Mipa OC-System + Mipa Multi-Mat 4:1 by weight + Mipa 2K-HS-Härter 3:1 by volume = semi-gloss"
Does that mean say I'd use 1kg of OC system paint, to 250g Multi-Mat, lets say that gives me 1L of mixed product. I then add 333ml of hardener? Or is the measurement of hardener BEFORE i add the multi-mat?

i'm not familiar with the products your useing, and your measurements. but i would say and it should say on your can OR you SHOULD get the user information sheet for your products ( not the MSDS) ask the place where you purchased them from. it will give you all the info you need i would sure like to HELP you but i'm not sure just what your useing. i would set down and convert all the measurements to something you understand ML, OZ or what ever. it sounds like they want you to mix it at 4-1 to me thats 4 parts paint to 1 part activator. this is normally what we do here in the states i use OZ by volume or sometimes inches. so 20 oz of paint add 5 oz of activator (4-1)i'm not sure about your semi gloss product just what is it? you'll want to be careful with the flattener IF thats what it is, it can go from mild to wild with just an oz. your talking, weight, volume, kg, g, and l. get it all the same. you should be able to convert everything to OZ -VOLUME or something else your familiar with. I PROBABLY REALLY HAVE YOU CONFUSED NOW !!!!!!
Jay D.

badsix wrote:i'm not familiar with the products your useing, and your measurements. but i would say and it should say on your can OR you SHOULD get the user information sheet for your products ( not the MSDS) ask the place where you purchased them from. it will give you all the info you need i would sure like to HELP you but i'm not sure just what your useing. i would set down and convert all the measurements to something you understand ML, OZ or what ever. it sounds like they want you to mix it at 4-1 to me thats 4 parts paint to 1 part activator. this is normally what we do here in the states i use OZ by volume or sometimes inches. so 20 oz of paint add 5 oz of activator (4-1)i'm not sure about your semi gloss product just what is it? you'll want to be careful with the flattener IF thats what it is, it can go from mild to wild with just an oz. your talking, weight, volume, kg, g, and l. get it all the same. you should be able to convert everything to OZ -VOLUME or something else your familiar with. I PROBABLY REALLY HAVE YOU CONFUSED NOW !!!!!!
Jay D.

These are the two data sheets. When using the multi mat the mixing ratios in the multi mat TDS must be followed. but I cannot understand them.
https://www.mipa-paints.nl/fileadmin/pr ... Mat_EN.pdf
https://www.mipa-usa.com/fileadmin/prod ... _EN-NA.pdf