Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 5:43 pm
While this is a metal forum, newer metal workers and those who are not painters might want to see several body/paint steps between metal rough finishing and surface materials finishing prior to full panel painting. Finally, that their metal working can yield a good, completed project.
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- top left: Next step after the guide dust was a skim layer of filler applied after the metal shrinking done in previous step. More specific, filler was applied over 2K urethane primer which was sprayed over etch primer. Filler over primer can be a big no-no and I was warned by timbo but the tech sheets say it was do-able using minimal cure times: 3 hrs Urethane/ 30 min Etch, recoat. Notice the hard paint edge I found upon feather sanding; the filler was lifting. See urethane cure time imo under “Finished Product” below.
bottom left: canvas drop cloth makes a good dust curtain. bottom right: Mess-up turned into opportunity. Lifting filler was all removed; the bright areas are high spots. Decision was to fine tune and metal shrink all the way—no filler—using the earlier discussed techniques.
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- The area after spotting with 2K HS Urethane over etch primer. Due to time, no photos of the finish sanded product were taken. The handle/tumbler came out: e-clip on tumbler pull to the left as seen looking at the tumbler. Then, pull the big, mostly hidden U-clip, on the tumbler...down.
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- To prevent the chance of rust on the inside of the door skins the shrinkage-worked spots were sanded with 180, etch primed, 2k urethane primed and finally, hardener clearcoated.
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- Painting was hired out to a body shop. No further bodywork was needed. Door handles and molding were also delivered prepped for paint. You may have to shop for a shop willing (and helpful) to paint behind your work.
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- Notice the slight dip in front door repair area at molding. The area was a compromise, by not using filler on it. The car has 167K miles and a perfect restore was not projected.
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