How would you take this dent out?

More of an art than a science - discuss metalworking and welding here.



Fully Engaged
Posts: 431
Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 2:22 pm

Country:
Canada
PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 8:50 pm
Ok here is a couple of simple old school ways.Do you have a tree,another vehicle,telephone pole in your yard? Tie the vehicle to a tree or vehicle set the ebrake.Get a 2x4 and a 3lb hammer and straighten out the drip rail.If you can get a cheap azz harbor freight clamp to bolt onto the drip rail you can then use a come along connected to another vehicle, tree telephone, pole, etc.When you are secured pull enough to get some pressure and tap the high spots/ridges with a body hammer to relieve stress.Then finish it off with stud gun or whatever it takes.Use a straight edge to make sure the rail is straight and to compare to the opposite undamaged corner.

Option 2 would be to neatly cut out a portion of the inner cab,tap out the damage with a 2x4,hammer dolly etc metal finish,then weld the inner back in.It sounds hacky but if done properly you won't be able to tell.

Not sure what your problem is Dennis........



Top Contributor
Posts: 6214
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm
Location: Pahrump NV.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 12:10 pm
Jayson m wrote:What he means by frame machine is bolting a clamp to the pinch weld/gutter area and pulling that out first which will then bring out most of the damage with it.When doing sheet metal repairs you first start by getting your edges and body lines out first(perimeter alignment) then pull out the remaining low areas and metal finish it for filler.Using a stud welder/hammer and dolly and starting from the outside and working towards the centre is good advice for small dents in panel repair but this is not the case here.The gutter is the first place to start.



I have no problem, my comment was a bit out of place I apologize but I was attacked first, heavycollision's comment got under my skin.

Your way as explained above does sound like the right way to repair it and would be the quickest easiest way to do it. But Like Chris said No hobbyist has all that equipment and fewer have access to it. With a lill creativity and a stud welder/puller you can do pulls with stud welder & a come along I have done it right or wrong it can be done.
But as you explain a "MO clamp" would be 10000 times better I just never think about using them because I don't have any the fact that most all of them are so specialized makes it hard to buy most of them but there are a few that are for general repairs that should be in every ones arsenal of tools to do light pulls you and heavycollision are correct. I am sorry But a frame machine part is a little over kill in my opinion when all you have to do is Tie the car/truck down to floor with chains to keep it from moving and a solid source to pull from, I use a Engine puller crane also tied to the floor with chains walla! I wouldn't call it a frame machine but for doing light pulls its more than adequate.

I do shop for MO clamps though maybe some day I will get lucky and get a deal on some used ones, But I am concentrating on buying more Transmission specialty tools rite now at this time there just isnt money in doing paint jobs around hear too many guys doing it cutting everyone's throats, one guy is doing completes for $1500 outside in his driveway and people think they look great and swear by the guys work and he gets insurance work to boot I am sorry but I cant compete with that. (I wont compete with that)

Im looking at trying to get into doing more Transmission work myself its a bit more specialized requiring a bit more intelligence has a lot less grunt work better pay with fewer guys doing out of there garages at home to deal with cutting each others throats to make a living.
Last edited by Doright on Sat Oct 04, 2014 12:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



Fully Engaged
Posts: 431
Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 2:22 pm

Country:
Canada
PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 12:35 pm
You can buy cheap clamps form harbor frieght that are a copy of more expensive moclamps.You can do lots of repair work with a stud gun but even weld on tabs will do a better job.I outlined some other ways using equipment that most backyard guys would have also.
Your comments about know it all pros is why I thought you had a problem.I am certainly not going to tell you how to fix an air plane.That is why experience is more important than having all the tools if you don't know how to use them.Repairing collision damage is another ballgame compared to doing a paintjob.The OP would be better off taking it to a local shop and paying a couple of hrs of labor to have them do the rough out and finish it off himself.



Top Contributor
Posts: 6214
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm
Location: Pahrump NV.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 12:50 pm
No worries Jason :allgood: :bighug:
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.
Previous

Return to Welding & Metal Fab

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 36 guests