Hi guys, I bought a fairly inexpensive Lincoln Electric flux-core welder (HD100) a few years ago from one of the big box stores. Used it for some small projects on lawn equipment, etc. Works OK for 110v welder for weekend warrior. Would definitely buy a 220v welder with higher current rating if I had to do it again, but it is what it is. The flux core wire works but is fairly messy.
So now that I'm doing a patch panel on my truck, decided to convert it over to MIG. Lincoln Electric (LE) sells a conversion kit for this for about $200 (I recently saw it online for $188). This welder comes out of the box with the same gun used on higher line models. I saw a YouTube video about converting this welder without buying the LE kit and did it for about $120 and with better parts than what comes with conversion kit. Figured I'd post it up here in case anybody can use the info in the future.
So I needed to buy the following items:
- Argon/CO2 regulator -- Harbor Freight $28 after 20% coupon
- 10 lb spool of .030 wire -- Harbor freight $30 (LE kit comes with 2# spool)
- 110v gas solenoid -- ebay $25
- .030 tips and Shielding gas nozzle -- USAweld.com $10
- Misc. hose and connectors -- local hardware store about $25
Very easy to convert -- drill hole for hose connection and mount solenoid (I fabricated bracket from a piece of flat stock that I had in the garage) and connect solenoid to circuit board (there are spade connectors on circuit board for LE kit). Yellow wire in pic.
Solenoid connects to existing hose bib on gun. You also need to reverse polarity on gun connection for MIG process.
The other side of solenoid is connected to regulator. I used a stainless steel covered 1/4" dishwasher hose.
Swap out the tip and nozzle
That's about all there is to it. I also bought a welding cart from Harbor Freight for $35. Well worth it.
Conversion of flux-core welder to MIG
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a couple of things that help mig welding, first get rid of the cheap metal ground clamp, get one that is solid copper, sorta shaped like a alligators snout, e- bay or your lws, second trim back the nozzle so its even with the tip, that way you have the right amount of stick out
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6235
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
Good job on the write up
Bet that bottle don't last very long Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
Thanks. Why won't bottle last? Does MIG welding consume a lot of gas or is it something wrong with the bottle/set up?
I wound up buying a better all copper clamp and a 11# spool of .023 EZ Grind wire, which I'm going to use on wheel arch repair. Waiting for weather to get a little better before I start that project though... |
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6235
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
No Migs just use a lot of Gas I have a bottle of steel mix 4 times that size and have to have it filled every time I turn around looking for a big bottle myself actually a few so I can have it in stock never fails that you run out on the weekend and my Welding supply is closed on weekends of course.
Practice a lot! buy some old fenders at a junk yard and some extra hood to make patches with and Practice practice practice. Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
I would make sure the connection is not leaking, especially at the bottle.
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Fully Engaged
Posts: 253
Joined: Mon Nov 16, 2015 11:34 am Location: New Jersey Country: USA |
I believe that bottle should last 4 hrs
Good work don't come cheap, cheap work isn't always good!
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Thanks guys. I don't do much welding so hopefully it holds up a while. I was going to buy a 20 CF tank but went for the 40 LOL...
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Non-Lurker
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2016 8:48 am Country: USA |
I use 125 ft³ bottle and even it, goes by fast on any decent sized project. Couldn't fathom trying to get by on a 80 ft³'er or smaller. The thing with MAG (as I like to call it now ) is that the nozzle orifice is usually 1/2", so you pretty much always need a flow rate of 20-30 CFH.
You can get by with 20 CFH if you are working with no draft at all, but if there is even the slightest draft coming in at an ange, it blows the shielding gas away and you end up with nice, pretty little worm-holes aka: swiss cheese where you would rather prefer a solid, stout weld bead. |
14 posts
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