Which MIG welder to buy for cars?

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 11:47 am
I need to install a few parts or rear clip.
I am going to buy a welder and spend some time learning to weld. I have stick welder and did some work with it.
Thanks.
I guess flux welder is not a good choice? Does it have to be with gas bottle?
Here are HarborFreight welders, which one should I buy?
Thanks.
Experience: 40 body parts.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 1:05 pm
Can I ask you (beg?) to consider going with Hobart as a great entry level welder instead of Harbor Freight? Unless you are only going to use once or twice.

Either way yes you want a gas setup; world of difference in ease of use and final weld quality compared to flux.

Here's an example of what I get out of my little Hobart Handler:
bracket.jpg

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2017 12:13 am
Have to agree with chris. Take what I say in the following as a general guide not specific brand or model recommendation since brands here are different and our power (240v) is too.

I have a gasless MIG which I've had in the shop for probably 10 years. Use it rarely because it's such a pain to use. Splatter everywhere and really difficult to dial in. Useless on light gauge body panels, in fact I was blowing holes in 3mm plate.

Before Christmas I landed a job that needed a fair bit of welding so lashed out on a new welder that actually suits what we do.
http://unimig.com.au/catalogue_product.asp?product=1008&category=1&subcategory=1#http://

Once set up and with a few trial beads laid down I was able to butt weld 0.8mm panel with nice neat welds having good penetration and needing no clean up afterwards. Happy? You'd better believe.

The key is controllability. If all you have is a series of stepped settings you are going to find it hard to dial in the exact setting that you want/need. What I specifically wanted was the ability to turn it right down so I could weld 0.8mm sheet. To do that I needed to be able to control volts, amps and wire feed all separately. Most entry and mid range welders don't do that.

The pros will tell you that duty cycle is where it's at but for weekend warrior welders that really doesn't matter so much. What is important is controllability because we don't necessarily have the skills to be able to adapt technique to compensate for a welder, nor the need to weld for long periods of time. Mine is rated 10% at 180 amps which seems low but increases when used at much lower power. I've not had it cut out.

Total cost was around $900AUD with a purchased gas bottle (cheaper than hiring for light use) and it has been one of the better investments I've made. The norm here is to hire gas bottles but that becomes expensive if you're not using the welder a lot. If you have the option, look at purchase as an alternative.

Having done the job it was purchased for I even made it a permanent home:
Image


The job? That's it in the background, plus a few gratuitous FIGJAM pics, just for the fun of it. :lol: No, really, with the right welder you can tackle jobs like this. :wink:

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Chris



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2017 3:45 pm
Thanks, guys!
Chris, can you post link to your welder? How many amps do I need?
I don't think I'll be buying one from Australia...:)
Experience: 40 body parts.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 8:22 am
Chris (NFT5) you do really nice work.

My little MIG welder: https://www.hobartwelders.com/products/ ... andler140/

It's great for autobody sheetmetal welding, and light stock welding. You won't be splicing in a truck frame with this welder but for most of what you need for doing bodywork, etc. it's great. Should be found for less than $500 if you search.



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 10:40 am
As a beginner myself I purchased this Hobart.

I also ran an additional two 220 circuits to the garage for the air compressor and welder.

https://www.hobartwelders.com/pdf/spec_ ... er_187.pdf



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 1:19 pm
one thing to look for with the Hobart welders is the gages. when I purchased mine I was having fits with setting the gages. a little surfing and it seems Hobart had 2 different gage suppliers- smith or an unbranded gage. I had the unbranded.
if the gage isn't a smith, contact Hobart for a replacement. great customer service for me.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 4:47 pm
Wow! That Hobart Handler 187 is a power hog. :shocked:

20.5 amps @ 220v. By comparison my Unimig Viper 182 is only 9.5 amps so uses a standard 10A power point.

They look like a decent little welder though and the 140 runs on 110v which has to be a plus.
Chris



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 9:11 pm
NFT5 wrote:Wow! That Hobart Handler 187 is a power hog. :shocked:

20.5 amps @ 220v. By comparison my Unimig Viper 182 is only 9.5 amps so uses a standard 10A power point.

They look like a decent little welder though and the 140 runs on 110v which has to be a plus.


9.5A in at 180amps out? If so at what voltage? The hobart looks to be holding over 20v at 180A.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 3:28 am
Our supply is nominally 240V and the Spec Sheet says 23V and 180A. So, quite similar output at the top end but the Hobart has the edge on Duty Cycle. At the bottom end you can reduce voltage down to 10V and amperage down to 11A without touching wire feed speed, which is on a separate dial. All stepless so easy to fine tune.
Chris
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