How to best protect back side of patch panel

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 12:27 pm
So I just ordered the wheel arch panels for my 2004 short bed ram.

I dont have the money to spend on full bed sides, though I wish I did. So I am patching. If I did this the normal way, someone would just spray the panel with weld through primer, and maybe try and treat the backside with some type of anti corrosive. I know this will just fail in a few years in the northeast, so I have been thinking about just how to get access to the back side of my stitch weld to treat it properly.

I am going to patch everything in, and then cut an access panel on the inside of the bed. After I properly treat the backside of the wheel arch, I plan on welding back in the access panel I cut out. This will be painted and then covered on the inside by the plastic bedliner.

My thoughts are - I would much rather spend a little more time welding and knowing my patch panel was done the right way. I personally dont care if the inside of the bed wall rusts through above the wheel well, as its not a visible area and I can just patch it again down the road if need be.

Anyone have any better ideas? And also, should I just back grind the welds, epoxy prime, and top coat? Or are there better options for preventing my stitch welds from rusting through on the back side?

Edit: just an FYI I will be mig welding them in with .025 wire and C25

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 9:31 pm
Personally, I would coat the entire underside of the metal (including patches) with a couple of coats of ********** black epoxy.
Cut patches to fit tight and just slightly bevel the edges to allow a "V" shape of clean metal along the seams.
Weld the patches into place by spot welding every 3" so as not to overheat the metal. Continue adding to each spot until the seam is solid.
If you have access to the back side after welding, touch up seams with epoxy. It will outlast the rest of the car.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 9:29 am
I was honestly just going to order eastwood epoxy - but after a short search regarding ********** it looks like it is worth the money!

Have any experience with their clearcoats? Dont want something insanely expensive as this is a daily driver/work truck with 268,000 miles on it. But want it to hold up, so thinking of trying their production clear.


Regarding the ********** black epoxy. Can this go over existing frame pant thats scuffed up and cleaned with their waterborne cleaner? I have some rust on the frame welds which I would clean up and then prep with their cleaner too. Thinking I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone with their black epoxy.



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 9:31 am
PS: If I cut an access panel on the inner bed skin, i'll have access to the back side. In which case would you dress the welds with the grinder on the back too? and then touch up the epoxy? Or just epoxy over the welds?

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 9:46 am
I have used a lot of ********** products and personally liked their Euro Clear the best.
The same goes for the Tamco products sold here in their Store Front which I am using on the 1955 Chevy Truck in the projects section.

The Euro Clear goes on easily (with some practice) and cures to a hard scratch resistant surface. In fact, if you wait a couple weeks before buffing (like I did) you will find it takes a lot of work to cut and buff due to the hardness.

Generally with a MIG welder the backsides are not too awful if you have the welder heat set properly. Spot welds should penetrate but not leave huge globs of metal. That being said, if there is accesses, a quick dusting with 60 grit on a grinder will level them quickly and you can use a paint brush to cover them with epoxy.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:49 am
Thanks '68!

Have black epoxy, 2k in gray, and euro clear 2020 coming tomorrow!

I'll get my base from the local shop once I get to that point.

My patch panels came in this morning from Raybuck. Look like good quality pieces! Im psyched!

I'll probably start fitting the panels tonight. But I also have a lot of stripping to do, so gonna go get a razor scraper and get to work on that as well. Should be fun.

Now just gotta get a better gun than my old purple. I dont even know what the tip size. maybe I can just use that to shoot the 2k.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 1:24 pm
I use a 1.8 tip for 2k and polyester primers (smallest I would go for poly primers).

A 1.4 tip for epoxy, base and clear coats.

I am not a fan of Harbor Freight. My experience with their products has always been bad and most are not worth the effort or gas spent to return them.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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