2011 F150 Supercrew Cab Corner replacement Project Start

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 2:56 am
Hey everybody, I'm new here. I'm about to replace the cab corners on my 2011 F150 Supercrew. The rust is finally through. A year ago it was a couple of bubbles in the paint. I bought my replacement cab corners, and I bought a panel adhesive/panel flanging kit from Eastwood. I've read up a bit on the subject, and I've seen professionals replace quarter panels and rockers in person when I was a painters helper in a body shop, but it didn't involve rust. When this is finished every square inch possible of this truck will be OIL UNDERCOATED!

Link to picture of current rust - https://www.instagram.com/p/BcOxzfCF-rZ ... Z9VgxXnw0/

This will however be my first real BODY project. I'm decent with the paint side, but I've never worked metal. I'm set on using the other panel adhesive with the provided rivets in the Eastwood kit, or secure the patch while the adhesive dries with self tapping screws. I plan to refinish the cab corners up to the character line, and inside the door jams with UPOL Raptor bedliner tinted with the trucks YZ code after body filler and primer. Using the bedliner will keep me from having to refinish the entire rear cab and roof rails and no need to remove the rear window. The bedliner will also hide some novice body work.

I've been brain storming on how I will flange in a couple of tight corners of the door jam on this truck. I imagine I'll have to fiddle with a body hammer and some pliers . I'll try to post pictures along the way. If I can get a couple friends over tomorrow the bed will be off the truck and I will start cutting little by little trying to leave as much Ford metal as possible so I don't go too far. I'm excited and scared. I hope to get some needed advice along the way, and maybe entertain someone else trying to learn. It's getting done either way, and I'm not shelling out $3-4k to have it done.
Last edited by 11YZFerd on Mon Dec 04, 2017 2:41 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 9:05 am
Does that rust go through the metal?
Looks like it could be removed completely with blasting media from the pictures.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 1:19 pm
i'm with you^^^
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 2:14 pm
I wouldn't be concerned about flanging that, but I would likely cut down the patch panel to below the lower bodyline if the rust hasn't creeped up that far. You're also going to need to either remove the bed completely, or take out the bolts, and move the bed back and remove the rear tires in order to have enough room to remove the existing (corroded) cab corners.

After the cab corners are off, you'll likely have NVH expandable foam behind there. I usually scrape that stuff out, then sandblast the inner clean and protect it with some epoxy primer.

Clean the surfaces to bare metal where the patch joins to the vehicle, apply your panel adhesive completely covering any exposed metal & clamp and hold the patch. I use self tapping screws on overlap areas that can't be clamped easily as it pulls the panel tight to the existing panel. Any holes left from the screws can be filled with more panel adhesive or fiberglass based filler, finish with standard filler, prime & topcoat.



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 5:31 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Does that rust go through the metal?
Looks like it could be removed completely with blasting media from the pictures.

It definitely goes through the metal. I can push through what's left with my knuckles. Media would blast right through this mess. Got the box off today. Even managed to scratch my eye ball with some debris flying off my cutting wheel. Got to visit the doctor for that. https://www.instagram.com/p/BcQcSkxl7dJ ... HBKlYkgA0/

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 6:43 pm
Kevin sounds like he has the best plan for this repair.
:goodjob:
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 2:31 am
Kevin Campbell wrote:I wouldn't be concerned about flanging that, but I would likely cut down the patch panel to below the lower bodyline if the rust hasn't creeped up that far. You're also going to need to either remove the bed completely, or take out the bolts, and move the bed back and remove the rear tires in order to have enough room to remove the existing (corroded) cab corners.

After the cab corners are off, you'll likely u have NVH expandable foam behind there. I usually scrape that stuff out, then sandblast the inner clean and protect it with some epoxy primer.

Clean the surfaces to bare metal where the patch joins to the vehicle, apply your panel adhesive completely covering any exposed metal & clamp and hold the patch. I use self tapping screws on overlap areas that can't be clamped easily as it pulls the panel tight to the existing panel. Any holes left from the screws can be filled with more panel adhesive or fiberglass based filler, finish with standard filler, prime & topcoat.
That has been my basic plan, except I really thought I'd need to flange the truck body. The box is off now. I feel like the toughest part is going to be getting the door jam Gap the same with the new patch installed. I'm going to do a bit of cutting today. :rockon: I'll be doing the passenger side of the truck, and then the driver's side. My garage isn't big enough to play with both sides at once. The truck will have to be flipped around. I'm hoping I know what I'm doing by the time I get to the driver's side cab corner. The box came off relatively easy, 5/6 bolts came out without cutting and no one dropped the box. Today I am interested to find out how far the rust has creeped towards the front of the truck. It hasn't gone up far towards the body line but there is a bubble or two past where the patch replaces on the rocker. :realmad:



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 9:16 am
11YZFerd wrote: Today I am interested to find out how far the rust has creeped towards the front of the truck. It hasn't gone up far towards the body line but there is a bubble or two past where the patch replaces on the rocker. :realmad:


Your probably going to need to replace the rocker as well then.

I am not a fan of flange type tooling, I like to use a Fish plate instead.
After cutting out the damage out I clean and ruff up the back side with 36 grit sanding disk first then Glue metal on to the back side of the opening in the panel being repaired creating a lip or step instead of using a flange tool. This leaves a perfect size step for a flush repair.
After letting the adhesive cure I remove all the excess adhesive from the fish plate leaving a clean metal step to glue the Patch panel too instead of a deep flange created by the tools used to create the flange. I like the fish plate to have an overlap of an inch or so on both sides.
When done properly you should leave a small gap between the two panels that needs to have all the adhesive removed from and lay down a good short strand fiberglass filler over & in the grove and feather it out over the two panels Prime and paint your done.

I think the Flange tool creates too deep of a Joggle and bends up the metal too much especially on curves. The damage created by a Flange tool on a panel can rival that of over heating a panel during welding in my opinion. I weld all my repairs now, But there are good reasons to use adhesives they are a very good alternative too welding now days in my opinion if you use a Good Hi quality adhesive and it is used properly theirs no problem with a Glued on repair in my opinion especially in non structural areas.

I do believe Keven Tetz demos how to do a Fish plate type of flange repair like I am talking about on an old Mustang quarter panel in his "Metal Rust repair" video. If you haven't seen it its worth the watch. That video its worth buying it and watching it before you do this repair I believe Chris sells it in his store on the main web sight of this board under paintucaution label
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9RLdEHBUyw

here is a vid showing fish plate type repair
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=schvDSIxQnA
Dennis B.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 8:56 pm
I have also read about that technique DORIGHT. I like the idea, and I think it may end up working the best as well. I did some cutting tonight. I raced the patch on the truck, and cut it the smallest portion that was obviously effected by looking at it. I expected some rust in the rockers, I wasnt sure how much. I'll be ordering some replacements. I know I won't use the entire rocker panel but I think it's worth purchasing instead of trying my hand at metal fabrication. What thickness of steel would you recommend for the glued on backing strips? Here's a link of the cut I did tonight. https://www.instagram.com/p/BcTXMnIlF2WKHLZTniBQ06U3LKHwtTjyIgX-jA0/



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 8:27 am
The same thickness as your working with should be good just make sure you really clean the metal first on the back side with an angle die grinder and a 2 inch 36 grit sanding disk. then wipe it clean with Acetone or MEK also have at least and inch or more on each side of over lap for strength of the lip.

I have done this before, If you bond the fish plates on to the metal clean with 36 grit scratch with and inch and half over lap pulled up tight with screws (I use Clecos) the fish plates are going to be as strong as the metal your working with.

I am not sure How you plan to use half of a outer Rocker panel without welding It would be challenging for sure especially with only adhesives. And I am sure the above technique could be used to do at least part of the job BUT The fact of the mater is the factory has a certain way they want structural stuff replaced in order to maintain the structure and strength of the vehicle in the case of an accident. and while a cab corner may only be a cosmetic repair a Rocker panel lends itself to the structure of the Cab I would think.
That said the factory's are using adhesives more and more on structures of cars and trucks as adhesives are in many ways just as strong as welding in many cases but not all as they use a combination of adhesive and welding together in many areas of new car construction. I would consult a manual or too before attempting the Rocker panel. ALSO I am sure one or two of the many fine ICAR rated repair techs that visit this board may have something to say about how to do this job correctly.

There is a lot going on with a Rocker panel structurally and while at first look it may only appear to be cosmetic its forming the lower side of the Truck cab protecting the occupants.
You may want to just stop with your cab corners till you figure out what you need to do and how your going too do the repair on your rocker panels as repairing the corners is like putting the Tailor in front of the horse in this case.

I am going to be doing this same repair on a buddies Truck this summer But I will be Tig welding Mig welding and Spot welding all of it so I am not at all worried about the strength of my repair. In your case your using Adhesives and while I have a lot of respect for Adhesives they still are not the same as welding.

It also may be time this thread be moved the sheet metal repair and welding section as well? Moderators?
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.
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