Bent Hood Rail

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 5:18 pm
In the PIC below you can see the *buckle* on the side of the rail and the adjacent *kink* at the end of where the hood hinge mounts. Not good :cry:

What this translates to up top with the hood mounted on the car is a *High Bow* at the center of the hood compared to the D/S fender. The front sits normal and the rear sets pretty normal, but the rear does not want to drop to level simply by closing the hood. Meaning I have to push that rear corner down after I close the hood (could even be a hinge problem I suppose).

Point being, on top it's not giving me kink in the hood just a deformation of the curve or an excess curve.

Image
DSC_1596 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

this is a closer view looking straight across the rail ... the kink is clearly visible,
Image
DSC_1594 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

I need ideas on how to cure this?

What comes to mind for me is to cut across the kink, then pound out the side buckle and press the rail out straighter and then weld the cut back together.

The problems I foresee: Being sure to not *over correct* and then how does the strength of the rail hold up after said repair.

Talk to me guys ... I need some help on this one. :worthy:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 8:39 am
That bend is probably from someone forcing the hood closed with an improperly adjusted hinge.
I would try working the underside bulges back into to shape and see if it doesn't relax the hood.
Hinge adjustment can be difficult on some cars and may even work by adjusting the hinge in the opposite direction from what you think.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 9:16 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:That bend is probably from someone forcing the hood closed with an improperly adjusted hinge.


Yes it is certainly something to do with the hinge binding in some way and the hood being forced down.

I have it all reworked now. I pretty much did as I described.


I did a cross-cut at the point of the kink then worked the sides back to straight hoping to remove the stress and allow the top surface to flatten back out. Which it did a pretty good job of. I should have no over bow now.

I then inserted a piece of somewhat heavy sheet steel into the slot I had cut across the rail and welded it in. This insert is also welded directly to the end of the reinforcement plate inside the rail for the hood attachment. The thinking being this welded insert will help the sides resist deformation and transfer the force to the vertical sides of the rail (which can no longer distort).

I then also welded a strap along each side of the rail to reinforce the entire area.

If it kinks again it will be kinking at a different point further out in front of the hinge attachment.

I'll be sending all of my hinges (door and hood) out to be refurbished. Then I'll just need to be sure I understand how to install them and come to a proper adjustment.

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