Cowl metal work suggestions

More of an art than a science - discuss metalworking and welding here.



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 7:06 am
It's been a while since I posted but I'm in the process of putting my '68 Chevelle back together.

I need to replace a section of metal near the bottom cowl area. I tried cutting new metal then using my shrinker/expander to get the bends but it's not working. Any suggestions on working this metal? I can do two pieces but prefer using just one. The bends might be too complex for my skills/tools. This is the area just in front of the door, under the lower hinges where the cowl meets the rocker. Thoughts?

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Jay - Next project: 1968 Chevelle Malibu

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 12:51 am
MustStangSally wrote:It's been a while since I posted but I'm in the process of putting my '68 Chevelle back together.

I need to replace a section of metal near the bottom cowl area. I tried cutting new metal then using my shrinker/expander to get the bends but it's not working. Any suggestions on working this metal? I can do two pieces but prefer using just one. The bends might be too complex for my skills/tools. This is the area just in front of the door, under the lower hinges where the cowl meets the rocker. Thoughts?

Image


Actually I do have some thoughts.

The first is, two pictures instead of one. Close up is good, but further back wouldn't have taken much more for effort and may have provided a better vantage to offer an opinion.

Another would be, digging deeper to understand what a shrinker/stretcher actually does, because they don't bend and fold.

I could go into a lengthy spiel about how I might do it, but one of my go to options is multipul pieces welded together as you all ready mentioned.

On a simply path, open up a card board box of morning crunchies and see how the box is cut/notched to allow folding. Something like that.
Some use wood forms hammering over the edge, some use equipment to bend break a fold. Clamped between two solid surfaces you can hammer an edge over quickly.

My go to for advice, free wifi and hours googling. As you see from my pictures, further away for viewing and small pieces welded together. I did mention I had some thoughts to give didn't I? Hope they have been of some help to you?
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 3:46 pm
I would get a New repop of the piece IF available and cut the repair piece from that OR better Find a Good Used Part replace whole part OR again cut repair piece from the new used one.
I personally don't Like Re-pop parts most are close to originals but leave a lot to be desired most all are only good for cutting up and using for Patch panels in my opinion.

If a Re-Pop Part isn't available and You have to Hand form the Piece FIRST start by Making a Paper Pattern or template of the part, From that you can make most any part you need Hammer formed over Hard wood or Pieces of steel.

Here is a good video on making a Paper template:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCRpVqle_ck

From there its just Cut, Bend, shrink and stretch a piece of sheet metal to make most any part you need.

I would Probably start by Making a Wood form of this piece shaped to what you need then sandwich a piece of sheet metal in between two pieces of wood then hammer form the side bends. That corner radius is gonna need a lot of shrinking.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8eGGrdnSrg

This guy uses steel But Hard wood works good. :knockout:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KXancgN-fk
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 9:31 am
So we're looking at the outside skin of the cowl shoulder.

Unless you're skilled at metal shaping it might be wiser cost and time wise to just simply buy that piece and patch in just the section you need or drill out the welds and replace the entire piece. That would be my method of attack...IMHO.



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2019 7:51 am
Replace whole thing there only $87
https://www.opgi.com/chevelle/1968/shee ... l/CH27102/

Probably need these when replacing the outer:
https://www.opgi.com/chevelle/M240189/

You Might need these too by the look of that Rust.
https://www.opgi.com/chevelle/PZ00629/

And if your replacing the outer's its a good idea to replace the inner's so you probably need these as well:
https://www.opgi.com/chevelle/CH26957/

The thing about rust is its almost always worse once you get in there, These pieces like to rust from inside to the out side! So even if you patch up what you think is bad 6 months later rust is back bubbling up through your paint again.

Another point I would like to make even though after market replacement panels leave a lot to be desired using them is almost always faster and easier than trying to make your own Panels and Patches when their available.

As an example I am going to buy two new Quarter panels from this company for a 70 Chevelle I'm working on.
https://www.opgi.com/chevelle/1970/shee ... s/0815132/
Just so I can cut part of the wheel well off on each, an area about 4 inches by 4 inches it may seem like a waist to many but Its just Faster and easier to make a nice Patch from them than try hand forming what I need.
Can I hand form what I need? Yes BUT The amount of hours I need to make what I need with the tooling I have which is extensive still exceeds the Price of buying the panel already done. "Picking my Battles" My time is better spent on Panels that are Very expensive or flat out unavailable. Plus like I said above once your in there Rust is generally worse than what you can see so I am guarantied to have enough panel to make a Patch from once they get here and I start surgically cutting the rust away to get too good clean metal.

I am a Big fan of leaving as much original panel as I can, I will always prefer a properly patched panel over a Cheap replacement panel ANY day! The Panel is only Original once and saving it is a Priority when possible! a Patched panel may not look as Pretty as a new panel BUT its mostly Original! and Original always fits better & looks better.
Just Like Panel gaps These older cars NEVER had Perfect Panel gaps why so many think they need to add metal or fill the gaps amazes me. Sure way to loose points in a car show in the Original category when Judges inspect the car. Unless you take your time to install and align the original panels without modifying the panel so there is no added filler metal or filler and even then you can only get close because these cars NEVER had perfect Gaps.
The factory never did this on the assembly lines it just takes to much time they would get it close and have a Tolerance with GO/NO GO Gauges to check and as long as the Go Gage would fit and the no Go wouldn't down the line the car would go.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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