Need help with AMD fender installation an

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2021 8:43 pm
I'm working on a 1970 Challenger trying to get all the panels fit and the gaps lined out. I have the doors lined up with the rocker and quarter panel and got the gaps where I want them. I bought new AMD fenders because I couldn't find usable originals. The driver fender fits good against the hood the top part of the door and the lower part of the door and rocker. My problem is that in the middle of the fender, the fender sticks out on out 3/8" farther than the door and I'm not sure what to do about it. Any help will be appreciated.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 9:17 am
This is a common issue on all the older classics. Quality control from the factory was nearly non-existent back then.

Generally, I try to get them aligned as best as possible and then decide where I need to cut or weld on material.

The edge of your hood in the first photo is a classic example. It follows the contour of the cowl fine until the very end when it abruptly turns into a sharp point.

Scroll down to the bottom of page 1 on this thread and you see how material is added to edges to get gaps right. Keep scrolling through the thread and there will other gaps dealt with.

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=17047&hilit=57+Nomad

Hopefully some others who do a lot of custom cars will chime in.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 12:22 pm
Could part of the door issue be corrected by adjusting the top and bottom of the fender with shims? That was the case with my TA. Used shims at the bottom to lengthen the distance and pull in the middle.

Door and hood heights may need to be tweaked to match the extents of the fender

JT

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 12:49 pm
:goodpost: :goodpost:

Yes, I have done the same. Sometimes it take a lot of little adjustments to get this just right.

Loosening the door hinges to raise or lower the door as well as tipping it in or out at the bottom, etc.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 1:16 pm
I've adjusted the door all the way out as far as it will go. Seems like the middle is just out too far. Was wondering if I need to split the fender just under the body line. Remove about a quarter inch strip and weld it back together. Just not sure if that will bring everything in or not.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 7:49 pm
Adding shims to the bottom bolt should produce the same effect. I would try that before cutting the new fender.

AMD normally fits perfect and is what I buy for my '68 GTX project.

I did have to modify Goodmark panels nearly every time I used them. Body lines would be off, side marker light location off 3" from one side to the other, floor pans wouldn't match up, etc.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 7:52 pm
Did you check to be sure the front lip of the door is straight and not pushed in?

Also, try measuring the distance on the opposite side of the car from the A-pillar to the fender and see how they compare.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 8:29 pm
I'm going to check and see how the passenger side fits tomorrow. I did shim the bottom of the fender. I had to shim it 1/2 inch just to get it out flush with the rocker panel and the bottom portion of the door.



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 9:07 pm
Believe it or not, we are working on the same identical project. 70 challenger with AMD front fenders. I have spent 2 months getting my fenders to fit perfectly to the doors. Dang near impossible, but I finally had to cut the driver side below the lower body line to and remove some material. The passenger side I took the material off the very bottom and then welded the bolt flange back on. What a mess, but I now have the ability to shim or not to shim for adjustment.
Feel free to message me for any questions or help.



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2021 9:26 am
Use the new fenders to cut up and make patches for your original fenders.
I personally would rather have original metal over the new cheap foreign made stuff any day. even if it has to be patched up.

As far as quality goes ORIGINAL is best!
Dennis Barnett
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Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.
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