Welding burn thru

More of an art than a science - discuss metalworking and welding here.



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2022 11:12 am
I Take it the first pic is the damage you wanted to repair? The second is the Patch you want to install?
I say that because Patch pic appears to have more paint sanded away than the other.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 1:06 am
Believe it or not the first pic is the repair. It was taken further away so it looks different.
This next pic shows what I removed. Thought it would be easier than filling all the holes. Let me know what you would have done.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 10:04 am
Patch looks good. It is the best way to go because it removes the rust on the back side that caused those holes in the metal.

It takes a lot of practice to make your patchwork invisible. I watch guys do it and they make it look so easy but it's really their experience that makes the difference. The more you do, the better you will get.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 9:38 pm
Hard to tell how big those holes are?
Looks like they were drilled out? Was that an old slide hammer repair?

I have a couple metal hole punch tools I make small round patches with as small as 1/8" and as large as 5/8" and Tig weld them into holes like that with No Filler wire.
Makes a clean repair and because the heat is super pin pointed there is little to no distortion from the heat.

None the less your repair looks good.

Hole punch like use
https://www.govets.com/roper-whitney-31 ... r3EALw_wcB

I also have one like this for larger holes
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185373831976?h ... SwXwBiTJhe

I cut holes in the car panels with a Step drill for above punch outs
https://www.amazon.com/HYCLAT-Titanium- ... 8886362280

This car was repaired with the technique Panel was drilled off Blasted clean repaired and then reinstalled.
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The way it sits today waiting for 4 speed parts money
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This quarter was an Old Slide hammer job covered in Mud when I got the car.
The drill holes weren't that big so I decided to clean it up and weld them closed.
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I cleaned up both sides Hammer and dollyed the panel then smoothed with a shrinking disk I then welded the holes with a Tig no backer just simply welded them closed hammered and dolled weld bead smooth sanded as required.
The lower half of each quarter was replaced from the marker light down from Rust.

When I did the lower quarter panels I used a Copper backing for Fit up and Tack welding to hold the panels together during Mock up.
Copper makes a great backer for fit up when its "Dead soft" its very malleable. Easy to tweak the panel were you want it.
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The car is full of patches such as the ones shown, the car should have been scrapped! But hell it wasn't even a good parts car! lol there wasn't any good parts left on it.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2022 11:10 pm
jimmystoys wrote:And I thought I was making the right move when I bought my mig welder lol. See, one is always learning!...but for now, I will have to tough it out with the mig... I do appreciate the feedback. You guys are great on here. Lots of learning to do! At my age, 60ish, I can't believe how almost obsessed I am with body/metal work!...maybe my second wind in life! :oops:


No truer words were ever said! I love metal work more than Paint or body work.
A lot of us here are either over 60 or pushing it myself included
I started welding with Gas then learned Stick then bought a Mig because every one said for working on a car you need a Mig.....

NEVER EVER listen to the crowd!!!!!!
Listen to the Guys doing "Good work" they know what they are talking about.
I my self Love Gas welding the bead is even softer than Tig and easier to work it just takes a little longer. Heat warpage is a little more but its not bad once you get used to it.

It can be done with a Mig but once you learn Gas and Tig you'll be hooked its just nicer to deal with a softer more malleable bead that can actually be worked out than Rock hard Mig bead. You can get a Nice Tig cheap now days under a Grand.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2022 9:28 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Patch looks good. It is the best way to go because it removes the rust on the back side that caused those holes in the metal.

It takes a lot of practice to make your patchwork invisible. I watch guys do it and they make it look so easy but it's really their experience that makes the difference. The more you do, the better you will get.


Yes I'm practicing as much as I can. Never thought a few months ago I wood be doing patches by now. I'm not that great but enjoy the challenge.



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2022 10:08 pm
Doright wrote:
jimmystoys wrote:And I thought I was making the right move when I bought my mig welder lol. See, one is always learning!...but for now, I will have to tough it out with the mig... I do appreciate the feedback. You guys are great on here. Lots of learning to do! At my age, 60ish, I can't believe how almost obsessed I am with body/metal work!...maybe my second wind in life! :oops:


No truer words were ever said! I love metal work more than Paint or body work.
A lot of us here are either over 60 or pushing it myself included
I started welding with Gas then learned Stick then bought a Mig because every one said for working on a car you need a Mig.....

NEVER EVER listen to the crowd!!!!!!
Listen to the Guys doing "Good work" they know what they are talking about.
I my self Love Gas welding the bead is even softer than Tig and easier to work it just takes a little longer. Heat warpage is a little more but its not bad once you get used to it.

It can be done with a Mig but once you learn Gas and Tig you'll be hooked its just nicer to deal with a softer more malleable bead that can actually be worked out than Rock hard Mig bead. You can get a Nice Tig cheap now days under a Grand.


Thanks for the tips on Tig welding Dennis. One day I will have to try it. Until then, I will try and fluke my way with Mig for now. Always enjoy your educational projects and pics. I do learn from you and others on here!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2022 11:00 pm
Yeah, a TIG is on my Christmas, Birthday, wish list. Been there for 20 years now.

I use .023" wire in a gas MIG. It does take some practice and getting to know the proper heat and wire feed settings. Once you find them, write them down.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2022 8:52 am
Here is a good DC Tig with Hi freq start AND PULSE for under $700 with a 5 year warranty!
No it wont do Aluminum but as a Beginner you really don't need or want to get into that any way.
This is a dual voltage machine as well it will work with 110V OR 220V great little starter machine!

https://www.everlastgenerators.com/prod ... i-tig-200t

I have an Everlast machine great welder for the money.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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Posts: 5543
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm
Location: Pahrump NV.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2022 2:44 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Yeah, a TIG is on my Christmas, Birthday, wish list. Been there for 20 years now.

I use .023" wire in a gas MIG. It does take some practice and getting to know the proper heat and wire feed settings. Once you find them, write them down.


I never got good with the .023 didnt care for it myself I burned through to many times with it chucked the spool in the drawer, never used it again!
I use ER70 something??? in .030 for almost most everything.

When I use my Mig on auto body stuff I use ESAB Easy grind .030.
I get it in 11 pound spools p/n = 130PS44 right around 10-11 bucks a pound right now IF you can find it kinda hard to get, I just got a new 11lb spool on ebay for $40 !!!!! killer deal!!!
Again kinda hard to find the stuff but I like it!!!!!
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.
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