I'm probably in WAY over my head as this is my first restoration but here goes. I'm in the process of removing the rusted roof (continuous perforation at the gutter line) from a car from California (that I'm using as the basis for the restoration) and replacing this rusted roof with a solid roof from a car from up north (as a donor cause everything else other than the roof is rust!!). I've had no problems drilling out the spot welds with a spot weld remover. Now I am also running into some brazed areas. What is the best way to break those joints? How deep does the brazing usually penetrate between panels? I want to maintain as much structural integrity as possible and the brazed joint looks to be the best place to break.
I've also got an issue on the rear pillar. There are three layers of sheet metal here! What is the preferred way to weld the inner layer? Do I cut a band out of the rear pillar to access or???

Can't really help with this one, but I gotta say good luck!

cruiser guy wrote:I'm probably in WAY over my head as this is my first restoration but here goes. I'm in the process of removing the rusted roof (continuous perforation at the gutter line) from a car from California (that I'm using as the basis for the restoration) and replacing this rusted roof with a solid roof from a car from up north (as a donor cause everything else other than the roof is rust!!). I've had no problems drilling out the spot welds with a spot weld remover. Now I am also running into some brazed areas. What is the best way to break those joints? How deep does the brazing usually penetrate between panels? I want to maintain as much structural integrity as possible and the brazed joint looks to be the best place to break.
I've also got an issue on the rear pillar. There are three layers of sheet metal here! What is the preferred way to weld the inner layer? Do I cut a band out of the rear pillar to access or???

Just to get an idea of what you are looking @, can you tell me the make/year of car? [ ie Is it a frame supported body OR unibody?]

Likely by now you have discovered some of the answers on your own. Close inspection of sheet metal structure will reveal how factory assembled the body panels.

Brazing, ideally wil penetrate sheet metal as wire weld does, EXCEPT will allow for more flexability. If you have decided you are going to cut roof @ factory seems, you will find them [in part] under brazed areas.
I prefer to use 3" cutt off tool [high rpm]. Simply slice open panel along braze.

Re: Rear pillar [often refered to as "C" pillar], again, open up along factoy lines to reveal assembly process. Yes, to answer your "Q", it is often a practice in shops when "sectioning" sheet meatl panels, to "slice open" outer skins to access inner structures. If body is fully supported by frame [non unibody], dont obsess about structural integrity. Simply dulpicate what you remove as best possible.

All this info contingent on make/model of car [Im assuming its similar in structure to '60's 70's US manufature.

Where to separate roof panel may vary, again, try to keep panel replacement as close to factory as possible.

You can do this, patience is key.

.....well it's obviously not a chrysler corp. unibody(no brazing in those,and 1 layer of skin only),,are you trying to replace just the skin? or the whole structure?,,we need much more specifics to advise,,